The Sorcerer's Apprentice
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|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Andy Ross. October 25th 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Oct 27, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: A) "Layne Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone"5.9R.B)....
Located on the formation on the north side of Three Fingers Canyon.Takes a line to the right of the route Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone. Starts from the v-notch north and below the central wave (see Photo).Walk north from Three Fingers for about 10 mins. The climb starts about 60' up right from the lowest part of the notch. Small cairn.Pitch one is Classic.
(P1.Climb to a pro bolt at 25' then follow more pro bolts past some very thin moves trending right to a groove.Climb the groove then one more bolt to double anchors. 200'5.10
(P2.Cross the corn flake slab on the left passed one bolt ( food for thought) to a groove,up this and follow holds to the left and double anchors just below a large ledge. 180'5.7R.
From here one can descend from these anchors straight down to a large ledge and other rap anchors on southern end of ledge (top of "LP and Sorcerer's Stone P1)to the ground. Or follow ledge south and forth class several hundred feet to the summit block and climb a short final 5.6/7 crack pitch to the top and fine views.
Drive to the mouth of Three Fingers Canyon. Walk north for 10 mins.See Photo.
Cams from 1/4" to 3.5 Friends. slings,quick draws, two 60m ropes.
|Photos of The Sorcerer's Apprentice Slideshow
Paul starting the thin section on the 200' 5.10 fi...
Paul starting across the corn flake slab ,second p...
Exiting the groove second pitch 180' 5.7R
Leaving the Eastern Reef .
From camp at Three Fingers Canyon. A)Hard Labor.5....