The Sorcerer  WI5

378 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Ice, 4 pitches, 700 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  WI5 [details] FA:  Kevin Doyle, Iain Stewart-Patterson Feb 1983 Submitted By:  Dave Rone on Oct 17, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. Photo: Dave Rone

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A beautiful, remote route in an incredible setting! The Sorcerer pours down the back of a canyon surrounded by big walls on all sides.

Pitch 1: Climb moderate ice to a short, steep pillar and then follow narrowing ice up and right to the first belay (bolts).

Pitch 2: A short pitch of snow and easy ice leads to a comfortable belay ledge on the right, at the base of the main column.

Pitch 3: Move left from the belay and climb excellent, steep ice to the large cave on the right (bolts)

Pitch 4: Traverse left out of the cave on vertical to slightly overhanging ice (crux) and climb a long pitch on ice that eases off as you get higher.

Pitch 5: (Optional), a short, easy pitch leads to the top.

Get an early start, you don't want to be the second party to show up! Anything that comes off is funneled all the way down the route. Being 10 minutes late can cost you 3 hours! (my experience)

Descent: 3 rappels (70m ropes)

Rappel #1: From v-threads at the top to the big cave.

#2: From the cave to the snow-ledge, a short easy scramble leads down to the bolts at the top of the first pitch.

#3: From the top of the first pitch to your packs.

Location 

Most parties approach from the North Ghost, but the route actually lies to the north, in the Johnson Creek drainage.

After descending the Big Hill, drive to the North Ghost and park just past Sentinal Crag. Hike north (Bastion Wall to the left) until you come to the north end of the first Johnson Lake. From here head northwest, eventually moving right over a ridge, and down into The Sorcerer drainage. Once you're in the drainage the approach is obvious, and you'll soon see the route. 1.5 to 2 hours.

You can also approach via Waiparous Creek, hiking past Hydrophobia to The Sorcerer drainage. This approach takes 1 to 1.5 hours. Check out the link below from Gravsports for more info.
www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/hydrophobia_beta.htm

Protection 

Protection is screws, belays are bolted. There are no bolts at the top so bring cord for v-threads.

Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow

Add Photo

Wes Bender starting up the first pitch. Photo: D...	Pitch 3. Photo: Dave Rone	Black Rock Mountain and the second Johnson Lake, f...
Start of the 4th pitch. Photo: Wes Bender.