The Sorcerer  5.12b PG13

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  John Kear, Mick Schein, Josh Smith and Allan Aiken Submitted By:  John Kear on Oct 4, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mick Shein coming up pitch 2, the amazing 11a corn...

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Description 

The Sorcerer is the direct extension of The Sorcerer's Apprentice.

Pitch 1&2- Climb The Sorcerer's Apprentice the top of the second pitch.

Pitch 3- Climb straight up off the belay past a mantle and two bolts. Continue for another couple of body lengths to a tiny tree growing out of a horizontal crack. From here move up and slightly right finding pro in hidden horizontals. Continue straight up on gradually easier but runout climbing to a bolt. Climb the left facing corner system as it arches up and left, after a final small roof continue straight up to a bolted belay. 5.11 130ft.

Pitch 4- Climb straight up to the roof above the belay. Clip a pin and back it up then pull the roof onto the headwall above. Follow the thin seam that splits the headwall past 4 protection bolts. This is the sustained crux of the route. After clipping the last bolt continue straight up on easier face climbing and past a final short splitter. Arrive at a good sized ledge with a dead tree. From here easier climbing leads up and slightly right into a short left facing corner and finally the top. 5.12 150ft.

Location 

Located about 100ft up hill from Mountain Momma. Start at the base of a vertical face that leads directly into the crack/seam of The Sorcerer's Apprentice.

Protection 

Cams from .25 (purple or grey C3) to 2 inches, 3 or 4 .5inch (green alien/blue TCU), doubles .75 to 1.5, RPs, set of nuts.
P1 - 3 bolts and 1 piton, bolted anchor
P2- 1 piton, bolted anchor
P3- 3 bolts, bolted anchor
P4- 4 bolts, 1 pin, tree anchor on top