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The Sorcerer
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Sorcerer's Crossing T 
Sorcerer, The T 

The Sorcerer 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Dunn and Chris Wood, 1977 FFA: Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne, 1978
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: Shanti on May 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer

Description 

Climbs up the left side of the pillar. Pitch 1: 5.10 offwidth past 3 star-drives to 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.9+ wild chimney/tunnel to 3 bolt-anchor. Pitch 3: Strenuous and unique 5.11d off-width/squeeze chimney past two drilled angles and one lead bolt to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 is the crux - exposed and committing. Decent: 3 rappels down route.


Protection 

Rack: Singles from fingers to hands, extra large gear (Big Bros, #6 and #5 Camalots)
2010: All anchors at belay stations replaced.



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By Shanti
May 11, 2010

Pitch 3 of this route is one of the most wild and difficult vertical offwidth squeeze chimneys in the desert and was established by Jim Dunn before the invention of Big Bros or big cams. This route is still a sandbag over 30 years later.