||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Jim Dunn and Chris Wood, 1977 FFA: Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne, 1978|
|Page Views: ||1,060|
|Submitted By: ||Shanti on May 10, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Climbs up the left side of the pillar. Pitch 1: 5.10 offwidth past 3 star-drives to 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.9+ wild chimney/tunnel to 3 bolt-anchor. Pitch 3: Strenuous and unique 5.11d off-width/squeeze chimney past two drilled angles and one lead bolt to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 is the crux - exposed and committing. Decent: 3 rappels down route.
Rack: Singles from fingers to hands, extra large gear (Big Bros, #6 and #5 Camalots)
2010: All anchors at belay stations replaced.
May 11, 2010
Pitch 3 of this route is one of the most wild and difficult vertical offwidth squeeze chimneys in the desert and was established by Jim Dunn before the invention of Big Bros or big cams. This route is still a sandbag over 30 years later.