The Sorcerer Rock Climbing
The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).
The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.
Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.
Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.
Weather station 10.1 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Sorcerer
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Sorcerer
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Sorcerer:
Thin Ice 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 3 pitches
Pinhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
The Raven 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch
Tradewinds 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Atlantis 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Scirocco 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Pyromania 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Ice Pirates 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c CA
: Southern Sierra
: ... : The Sorcerer
This is an excellent dead-end variation to Thin Ice - worth the time and effort if you're up for the challenge.P1: Begin as for Thin Ice, but instead of traversing right, continue up the crack system to a bolted anchor. 5.10-.P2: Continue straight up the ever-steepening and thinning crack and step left to clip the anchor. The most difficult move is perhaps the very last one! 5.11-.Rap back down (I believe a single 70m rope got us down) and finish with the upper pitches of Thin Ice....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!