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The Sorcerer

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10745, -118.48148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 154,159
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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The Sorcerer.

Description 

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.


Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sorcerer:
Stars and Stripes Forever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lost at Sea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pinhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
Ice Pirates   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Raven   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Tradewinds   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Davy Jones' Locker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Darren leading 1st pitch (10-) of Wailing Banshees (11-).  Sorcerer Needle.

Wailing Banshees 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Sorcerer
Make a few hard moves off the ground and clip a bolt then continue upward over decent rock to the first anchor (apx. 70'). Pitch #2: Climb the crack up to where the corner shoots off right. Protect high in crack and then go right (crux) and fire up the corner. Continue up and place small (less than inspiring) gear where you can get it. The climbing becomes easier as you get higher and the gear gets better up high... You are then at the anchors of Scirocco. Make 2 raps to the ground ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Sorcerer's East Face
Sorcerer's East Face
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from Spooky
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Sorcerer
Sorcerer
The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pitch of Thin Ice with Mei Ling belaying, and Matt Robertson starting the 1st pitch of Atlantis while I belay.  Photo by Manny R.
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Climbers on Pinhead
Climbers on Pinhead
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
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