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The Sorcerer

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10745, -118.48148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,485
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

48°
Sunday

71° | 50°
Monday

71° | 49°
Tuesday

68° | 48°
Wednesday

64° | 46°
Thursday

64° | 44°
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Description 

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Sorcerer

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Sorcerer:
Stars and Stripes Forever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Sleight of Hand   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lost at Sea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pinhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Ice Pirates   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Raven   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Tradewinds   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Davy Jones' Locker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: Pyromania

Pyromania 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Sorcerer
This is perhaps the most visually stunning line in the Sorcerer/Witch amphitheater. It takes the arching undercling crack on the Fire Wall, which is the chartreuse wall that sits below the Sorcerer itself.Easily TR'd via two rappels from the top of the Fire Wall, and led rather safely if the first piece is pre-placed (otherwise it requires some serious boldness for the poor landing off the initial boulder problem). The climb involves two boulder problems: First a long reach or dynamic move. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer's East Face
Sorcerer's East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Thin Ice, The Sorcerer.
Climber on Thin Ice, The Sorcerer.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
Rock Climbing Photo: sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Pinhead
Climbers on Pinhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer
Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...

Comments on The Sorcerer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!

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