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The Sorcerer

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10745, -118.48148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 157,488
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
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Description 

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sorcerer:
Stars and Stripes Forever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Sleight of Hand   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lost at Sea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Pinhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
The Raven   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Ice Pirates   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
Tradewinds   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Davy Jones' Locker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through the lower roof and directly up to the higher roof, passing a small bush.

Pinhead 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Sorcerer
A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Sorcerer's East Face
Sorcerer's East Face
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from Spooky
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pitch of Thin Ice with Mei Ling belaying, and Matt Robertson starting the 1st pitch of Atlantis while I belay.  Photo by Manny R.
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
Sorcerer
Sorcerer
Climbers on Pinhead
Climbers on Pinhead
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette the right slanting crack to face with bushes and grass in the start.
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...

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