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The Sorcerer
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis 
Davy Jones' Locker 
Don Juan Wall, The 
Ice Pirates 
Lost at Sea 
Pinhead 
Pyromania 
Raven, The 
Scirocco 
Sleight of Hand 
Stars and Stripes Forever 
Thin Ice 
Tradewinds 
Wailing Banshees 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer 


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Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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The Sorcerer.

Description 

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.


Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Sorcerer:
Sleight of Hand   5.10a/b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thin Ice   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Lost at Sea   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a/b     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
The Raven   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b     Trad, 5 pitches   
Ice Pirates   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Tradewinds   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Atlantis   5.11+ PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   
Scirocco   5.12-     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Pinhead climbs the thin crack on the left through the lower roof and directly up to the higher roof, passing a small bush.

Pinhead 5.10d  CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer
A stellar one pitch thin seam on the northwest face of Sorcerer. Purity of line, sustained and technical, beautiful rock with very fine moves make this a single pitch classic on a cliff full of multi-pitch classics. A challenging lead.Climb a thin crack up to a roof, pass the roof (crux), and continue with sustained 5.10+ to a fixed copper head. Sustained 5.10a (R) stemming past a 3-4" flared groove with a bush. Continue up 2-3" grooves and stems to a second roof sustained 5.10a. Pass roof ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from Spooky

Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...

Sorcerer

Sorcerer

Climbers on Pinhead

Climbers on Pinhead

The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pitch of Thin Ice with Mei Ling belaying, and Matt Robertson starting the 1st pitch of Atlantis while I belay.  Photo by Manny R.

BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...

Sorcerer's East Face

Sorcerer's East Face

sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.

sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.