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The Sorcerer

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Sorcerer Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.10745, -118.48148 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,730
Administrators: Matthew Fienup, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Forecast:
Today

81° | 62°
Saturday

80° | 59°
Sunday

79° | 58°
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76° | 59°
Tuesday

77° | 58°
Wednesday

76° | 57°
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Description 

The east face of the Sorcerer is very steep and home to some of the most classic climbs in the Needles. The major lines, right to left are: Scirocco (12a), Wailing Banshees (11-), Don Juan (11b), Thin Ice/Ice Pirates, and Atlantis (11c). The Fire Wall is beautiful glowing wall that stands apart from the main wall on the lower east face. It is home to a few one pitch testpieces including the arching undercling of Pyromania (13b).

The upper west face of the Sorcerer has a few shorter lines as well.

Getting There 

Approach most climbs by decending a narrow passage between the Sorcerer and Witch (closer to the Witch). Climbs are then accessed by a long ramp system along the base of the wall.

Descend by making a long rappel down the narrow northern ridge to the Sorcerer-Charlatan saddle.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',6],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Sorcerer

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Sorcerer:
Stars and Stripes Forever   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Sleight of Hand   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Thin Ice   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches   
Pinhead   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Lost at Sea   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Wailing Banshees   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
The Raven   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Ice Pirates   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   
Tradewinds   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Atlantis   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Scirocco   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   
Davy Jones' Locker   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
Pyromania   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Sorcerer

Featured Route For The Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: Scirocco photo by : Natalie Makardish

Scirocco 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Sorcerer
This is the crowning jewel of sport climbs at the Needles. In an area that is known for its soaring corner systems and beautiful trad climbs, in many ways, this is a counterpoint: A soaring, flawless arete, protected by a handful of draws...But this is no Boulder Canyon sport route -- expect to earn the clips. High on the route there is a 20' run to a bolt, followed immediatly by a 25' run to the next one! Serious air is possible on this route, which is supposedly Yaniro's "favorite" climb.A...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Sorcerer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer's East Face
Sorcerer's East Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Thin Ice, The Sorcerer.
Climber on Thin Ice, The Sorcerer.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Unknown Climber on Pinhead I believe. Taken from S...
Rock Climbing Photo: sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
sitting atop the Sorcerer after climbing Thin Ice.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer
Sorcerer
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Pinhead
Climbers on Pinhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
Sorcerer - Lower East Face with Devil's Dinette th...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sorcerer.  This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...
BETA PHOTO: The Sorcerer. This is Stephen high on the 1st pit...

Comments on The Sorcerer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Sep 30, 2014
Descent with a 70m is fairly straight-forward. Rap to the Sorcerer-Charlatan notch and then east down the weakness. There's a two bolt anchor about 20' below the notch and 70 barely reaches. Tie knots!

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