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The Solstice

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fall From Grace S 
All the Kings Horses S 
April Fools S 
Behind The Beige Vinyl Curtain S 
Breakfast of the Damned S 
Catch 22 S 
Crimes of Passion S 
Curmudgeons S 
Eve’s Testicle S 
Fornification of Kings, The S 
Least I Could Do, The S 
Quaker Oats S 
Tricksy Hobbits S 
Vampires S 

The Solstice  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.0286, -113.864 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,774
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 17, 2009
Forecast:
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In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise

Description 

South-facing, The Solstice is a great winter sport crag, particularly for moderate routes. The majority of the routes here are in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, with a handful of .11s and one specimen each of 5.6 and 5.7.

The rock is limestone (Kaibab, according to Goss) with amazing texture due to exposed chert knobs and edges in a wild variety of sizes and shapes. There is also an abundance of single-finger pockets, with the occasional larger pocket appearing here and there.

The whole crag starts out lower-angled and gently curves upward, getting steeper as it goes. There is a gentle bulge in the middle section, through which the harder routes travel. The raspy texture makes the lower-angled sections a bit nerve-wracking, but the routes are closely bolted, enabling you to keep at bay the fears of a geological flaying.

Getting There 

From the Woodbury Road ?turn off? travel 2.8 miles to a dirt road on the left (2.9 miles, according to Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition). Goss describes crossing two cattle guards; there are actually three—the guidebook apparently doesn't count the guard immediately off the highway. In any event, after crossing the third cattle guard, take the third dirt road on the left.

With 4WD, or a high-clearance 2WD, travel a quarter-mile or so to an obvious parking area near a wildlife cistern (You could drive another two hundred yards with an appropriate vehicle). In a standard passenger vehicle, you'll probably want to walk over the rough section.

From the parking area, follow the road uphill towards the crag. When the road ends, continue on the faint trail until a low cairn marks the start of a switchbacking trail, marked occasionally with cairns, that leads to the base of the wall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 9.6 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Solstice:
The Least I Could Do   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Behind The Beige Vinyl Curtain   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Eve’s Testicle   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in The Solstice

Featured Route For The Solstice

Behind The Beige Vinyl Curtain 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  UT : Saint George : ... : The Solstice
A wonderfully long, exciting line. Travel upwards on the ever-present reddish-brown, sculpted chert features. Occasionally the chert edges get thinner here and there; in the nick of time, a single-finger pocket or two appears. Approximately three-fourths of the way up a slightly overhanging bulge bars the way. Surmount this using big, rough, irregular knobs and good feet, plus a pocket or two.Use a 70m rope, a 60m won't be quite long enough to lower all the way....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of The Solstice Slideshow Add Photo
<em>The Solstice</em>, from a vantage point past the turnoff.
BETA PHOTO: The Solstice, from a vantage point past t...
Take a dirt road into this canyon for <a href='/v/the-solstice/106359393'>The Solstice</a>.
Take a dirt road into this canyon for [[106359393]...

Comments on The Solstice Add Comment
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By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 1, 2009
Unless no where else or to cold to climb i would avoid this area at all costs. The rock is soooooooooooo loose and the routes are so long. 100ft of choss. If for some reason you do venture to this area wear a helmet and stand as far away from under the climber as you can.
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Mar 2, 2009
"100ft of choss"—You say that like it's a bad thing :-)

You must have gotten on different routes than I did. I knocked off one small rock the whole time, and that was while being lowered.
By rick gardiner
From: Grand Junction, CO,
Nov 17, 2009
I wouldn't agree with those statements. I did several of the routes ropesolo at The Solstice Wall in february 08 and thought they were fun! I don't remember any loose stuff. And I had the place all to myself.
By tenesmus
Nov 19, 2009
I'd have to agree with Perin. It was all tight pockets and edges for me. Did you do the .12 in the middle of the steepness? The one with the cool fist jam in the Hueco? Part of the top of that was the only loose stuff I saw on the wall. It seemed like that part of the wall had seen a lot more water in general and maybe that's why? who knows? I still think its a cool crag and a lot of fun for groups with a wide variety of ability.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Nov 19, 2009
uh.. Ten, there are no 12s at the Solstice.

For the record, this place is, in fact, a flaming pile of fragile and sharp choss nuggets.
I'll add some more routes here soon, who knows? maybe people will get psyched?
By tenesmus
Nov 20, 2009
definitely confused. this place blows. but the soul asylum is pretty dang fun.
By dnoB ekiM
Mar 5, 2010
A nice assortment of mostly thin and technical slab/vertical climbing...with several routes in the 100ft+ range. Indeed the rockquality isn't like Kelly's or some of the other better crags in the area...but this is a good visit for the 5.10-11 climber after sending the stuff below...or for anyone looking for tons of mileage!
By boltclippinfool
Dec 8, 2012
Holy Chert! What a cool little cold weather climbing zone! Thought provoking climbing on featured (sometimes sharp) stone. Seems solid enough to me, nothing broke on us while we were here. I will say though, it takes a route or two to get used to the rock.
By Mattberr
From: utah
Mar 13, 2014
While the rock looks chossy from a distance, I found it to be relatively solid, maybe it has cleaned up with traffic? I ticked off all the 10's along with some 11's and enjoyed every one!!! It was windy and cold at Kelly's wall, while up and the solstice I was climbing in a t shirt. The most fun I have had on limestone in a long time.