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 ADVANCED
Mt. Evans - mixed, couloirs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Shinzo Abe's) Third Arrow T 
Bad Finger Couloir, The 
Bib (1st Apron), The T 
Black and White T 
Concrete Shoes Won't Help Ya In Da River 
Crystal Couloir 
Diamond Couloir 
Far Right Dihedral (2nd Apron) T 
Goldfinger Couloir 
Iration T 
Lazy Is As Lazy Does T 
Mount Evans Micro Goulotte 
North Face Crag 
North Face Snowfield 
Northwest Couloir T 
Road Less Warren 
Road, The 
Silhouette T 
Snave, The 
Snorkmaiden's Surprise 
Sunrise Couloir T 
Telepherique 
Tike's Trike T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Snave 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b WI2- Mod. Snow

   
Type:  Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1420', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b WI2- [details]
FA: ????
Season: Spring, Summer
Page Views: 2,035
Submitted By: J. Fox on Jun 23, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Topo of route. Red is the variation we took. The...

Description 

Looking for a fun and quick ascent of a 14er before work? Then head to Summit Lake on the Mt. Evans road and climb the Snave Couloir. This moderate and short route provides nearly 1,400' of snow climbing on the north face of Mt. Evans and plops you out right at the summit, above the parking lot.

With a car shuttle, you could drive down to Summit Lake and be gone in as little as 2 hours round trip. The route involves moderate snow, to 50 or 55 degrees maybe, and some short steps of water ice in the WI2- range or 4th class rock climbing depending on when you catch the route.

Location 

This is on the North face of Mt. Evans above Summit Lake. Hike into the bowl/cirque and head climber's left. The Snave takes the couloir up to the prominent notch just left of the summit.

Ascend the snow fields and gain access to a large ledge/bench system and either come at the Snave from the left (easy) or take one of the other options just below the couloir which might involve some easy ice climbing.

Protection 

Crampons, mountaineering axe and maybe one ice tool for the ice sections.


Photos of The Snave Slideshow Add Photo
Taking the Brute variation to gain the couloir.  Photo by Dennis S.
Taking the Brute variation to gain the couloir. P...
Dennis beginning the crux of the route near the top of the couloir.
Dennis beginning the crux of the route near the to...
Scottie B. ascending the Brute variation to the Snave route.  This line is a more fun and puts you out right below the main couloir.
Scottie B. ascending the Brute variation to the Sn...
Our line of ascent on the Snave on 6/23/2009.  Photo by Dennis S.  The normal route goes left under the lower cliff section, traverses right across the snow ledge and then into the Snave.
BETA PHOTO: Our line of ascent on the Snave on 6/23/2009. Pho...
Upper couloir, at the 4th class section.
Upper couloir, at the 4th class section.
Dennis about to top out on the Snave.
Dennis about to top out on the Snave.
The start of the 4th class rock/snow/ice mixed section near the top of the route.
The start of the 4th class rock/snow/ice mixed sec...
Scott and Dennis climbing the narrow runnel of ice below the main couloir.
Scott and Dennis climbing the narrow runnel of ice...

Comments on The Snave Add Comment
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By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Jun 23, 2009

My party and I took the line in the topo photo above. We found some water ice in the WI2- range. The rest of the climb was moderate snow, great, front pointing and solid tool/axe placements. The 4th class rock at the top was a fun finish to the route, but too short!
By ScottieB
Jun 23, 2009

More photos from this trip here:

scottborger.com/gallery.php?ga...