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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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The Snatch 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring through fall
Page Views: 717
Submitted By: Dan G0D5H411 on Oct 12, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    An absolute classic if not for the first 60 feet of questionable climbing. Head left around the corner from the Great Dihedral and look for a beautiful left facing dihedral starting 60 feet off the ground.

    P1. After some dubious, although easy climbing on trap rock, a hollow flake guards the dihedral above (be EXTREMELY carful here - PG13 for rock quality). Pitch 1 finishes up the dihedral, past a fixed cam, and traverses left to a belay stance and fixed anchor. 5.10a, 110 feet

    P2 Traverse back right and tackle the overhanging crack on the right wall. Stemming and an occasional hold in the dihedral keep the climbing at a reasonable grade. 5.10b, 100 feet

    Location 

    To the left of the Great Dihedral, look for a left facing dihedral that starts 60 feet up the face. At the time, there was a fixed orange cam in the first pitch dihedral.

    Descent: Rap the route with a single 60m. The bottom rap is ~110 feet. I have seen one 60m rope make it down on rope stretch, but with another 60m we had to rap down and to the left where the ground rises higher against the cliff.

    Protection 

    Standard rack with fixed anchors on top of both pitches.


    Comments on The Snatch Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Nov 29, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Just did this route again for the first time in probably 15 years, and was surprised to find the bolt on p1. Has it always been there, or was it added at some point? I ask because I have no recollection of any fixed gear from my previous ascent, but it's been awhile.

    Great route, by the way!
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Dec 1, 2011

    You find out info here here.

    "A block fell from P1 of The Snatch [route 75, page 61] leaving a blank section and some dangerous choss. This has been cleaned up and, with the addition of a bolt, is now an excellent, safe pitch. The grade has not changed."
    By Derek Doucet
    Mar 7, 2012
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Thanks, Jim. Hope you're enjoying things down under...