Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Express, The 
Arnold! Arnold! 
Arrowhead Spire 
Black Mamba Arete 
Blast from the Past 
Bolt the Planet 
Bone 'n' Vein 
Bottom Feeder 
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) 
Cask Strength 
Cimmaron Lanes 
Comin' In Smooth 
Crack of Dawn, The 
Deeper Shade Of Soul 
Dizzi Lizzi 
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America 
Ejection Generation 
Ejection Seat, The 
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone 
Example, The 
Five Dollars 
Ga-stoned Again 
Great Escape, The 
Green Bonus, The 
Gym Arete Direct 
Gym Arete, The 
Head Cheese 
Hot Rod Lincoln 
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like 
I'll Be Back 
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine 
Jane Fonda Warm-up 
Librium Quiver 
Morning Stretch 
Muscles From Brussels 
My Generation 
Natty Dread 
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet 
New Rule 
New Vernacular, The 
Oh... What Are You Looking At 
Orange Marmalade 
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception 
Paradise Regained 
Penitentiary Pump 
Prickly Pear 
Profits of Rage 
Pulley Mammoth 
Rally Monkey 
Raw and the Roasted, The 
Real Deal, The 
Rio Station 
Senor Verde 
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! 
Shorty Bob 
Smoking Pickle, The 
Solar Flex 
Spontaneous Combustion 
St. Patty's Slab 
Stud with a Rug 
There Goes the Neighborhood 
Three Stooges 
Thunder & Lightning  
Tomato, Tomotto 
Trailer Park Logic 
Trout Fishing 
Up Valley Goes Downtown 
Urban Fringe 
VHS or Beta 

The Smoking Pickle 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Dangle, Rich Aschert, 2004
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,344
Submitted By: jarthur on May 17, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment 

At the end of the difficulties on the Smoking Pick...


This has a very thin and difficult sequence which starts as soon as you take your feet off the ground and does not stop until you reach the 4th bolt. Once you've gotten to the 4th bolt, rests placed just where you need them will get you through the moderate finish to the anchors. It is just as good as the other 12s on this wall if not one of the best.

Although very similar to its neighbor Spontaneous Combustion, the crux section felt harder and more sustained. There is some loose rock along the way, but further ascents will help clear some of this away. Having your belayer wear a helmet is not a bad idea.


This is located at the Combustion Wall Area immediately left of Spontaneous Combustion.


12 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of The Smoking Pickle Slideshow Add Photo
The crux start involves sustained cranking on insecure crimps and small pockets.
The crux start involves sustained cranking on inse...
Comments on The Smoking Pickle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fred Knapp
May 19, 2008

A brilliant route. One of the best at Shelf!

By Aeon Aki
Mar 2, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This route climbs more like a bouldery V4 to an engaging and exposed 5.9 headwall, both classics in their own regards. It's almost a shame that the upper slab is gaurded by such a stout beginning. 5 stars!

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2012

Great route and one of the best at Shelf. The opening bouldery sequence is brilliant. Once you hit the 4th bolt, the climb goes down a full number grade or more but is still engaging and fun, all the way to the top. Awesome route!

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Boulder problem to 5.9 climbing. Master the boulder problem (crimpy) and henceforth master the climb, barring broken holds. Solid climb*

By slim
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Excellent route, slightly easier than Spontaneous Combustion (both the lower crux climbing as well as the slab climbing above). I can't believe this route wasn't put up until 2004. Totally blows my mind that such an awesome line hid in plain view for nearly 20 years.