The Smokey Birthday Climb (9/7/10)
||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Cory Fleagle, Eric Malmgren (birthday is September 7th)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||5|
|Submitted By: ||Cor on Sep 9, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4. A short slab pitch w/o gear....
A nice climb up this tower we did on our birthdays, during the 4 Mile Canyon fire.
The route goes up the south face. Start up a short gully to reach the face. Pitch 1 faces west. The others face south. Btween pitch 1 and 2 we moved the belay up to where it gets steep again. There are nice cracks and slabs above. We moved the belay between pitches 3 and 4 also. This helps save time. Near the end of the last pitch - where it faces out, move left to the west side to finish up.
Descend a double rope rap to the climber's left of the tower (west/south). Walk the gully, then do one more double rope rap from a single large hex. Descend the rest of the gully.
Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3. After pitch 2, move around a corner on th...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5. Up cracks, when they end move left around...
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