The Smoke Bluffs Rock Climbing
Mike leading one of the routes in this area (?)
|Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>|
This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.
The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.
The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.
Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.
Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully
to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.
Climbing Season For the Squamish area.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
323 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',92],['2 Stars',139],['1 Star',60],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Smoke Bluffs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Smoke Bluffs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Smoke Bluffs:
Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs
Yorkshire Gripper 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c North America
: ... : Penny Lane
Yorkshire Gripper climbs the beautiful cracks up the center of a blunt prow left of Popeye and the Raven. Expect fairly solid finger jamming to a well-defined crux where the crack peters out. Beta alert: I received the excellent advise to dispense with pro through the crux section. Simply load up the crack before the crux and punch through the crux moves without thinking of pro. After the crux, you should get a pretty good stance from which to place gear. The crux is pretty short and the gear be...[more] Browse More Classics in International
BETA PHOTO: Smokebluffs Crag Map
From: las vegas nv
Sep 8, 2011
Been 13 months since last visit. LOTS of needed pruning and brush clearing everywhere I looked in Smoke Bluffs.
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 10, 2009
There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.
There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now.