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The Smoke Bluffs

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The Smoke Bluffs 


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Location: 49.7061, -123.1401 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 214,963
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 22, 2006
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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes.

The routes are on generally excellent granite with a great mix of pure crack, friction slab, and delicate face. There are some overhangs, some wild ones even, but the vast majority of the routes are vertical to slabby.

The access issue relates to parking. There is an excellent parking lot available (thanks to the BC Climbers Access Society, I believe), but people continue to park in the residential areas anyway.


Getting There 

Driving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot.

Once in the parking lot you will see Boulder Gully to the west and a gravel road to the south that gives access to the rest of the crags.


247 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',83],['2 Stars',106],['1 Star',36],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',37],['5.7',25],['5.8',32],['5.9',32],['5.10',76],['5.11',23],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',9],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Smoke Bluffs:
Cat Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Neat and Cool
Laughing Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Wall Area
Pixie Corner   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Pixie Corner
Mosquito   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Wall Area
Quarryman   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Penny Lane
Wonderland   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 125'   Wall Area
Wonderland   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Pixie Corner
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Penny Lane
Neat and Cool   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Neat and Cool
Flying Circus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Neat and Cool
Smoke Bluff Connection   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Wall Area
The Zip   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Zip
Split Beaver   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Split Beaver
Supervalue   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Boulder Gully
Popeye and the Raven   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Penny Lane
Climb & Punishment   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Penny Lane
Partners In Crime   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Penny Lane
Electric Ball   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 75'   Octopus Garden
Yorkshire Gripper   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   Penny Lane
Crime Of The Century   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Penny Lane
Browse More Classics in The Smoke Bluffs

Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs
Not too many people can finish Split Beaver on fist jams alone.  Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Split Beaver 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Split Beaver
Pull over an initial bulge and start jamming up a gently but continuously overhanging and continuously widening crack. As it widens the usual difficulties transitioning from hands to fists are encountered, but it's when the fists get rattly that you earn it.Apparently it can be done with fists only if you have very big hands. I needed two fist and palm stacks to finish it.Once you're through the widest part there's a ledge with an anchor, or you can continue up another 20 ft of easier climbing...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By anthony509
From: grass valley, ca
Sep 8, 2011
CONDITION REPORT 

BIG THANKS!!

Been 13 months since last visit. LOTS of needed pruning and brush clearing everywhere I looked in Smoke Bluffs.

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
May 10, 2009

There have been many changes in the Smoke Bluffs recently. The trail from the parking lot now runs closer to the base of the cliffs, avoiding the steep gravel road. This helps climbers avoid getting plowed by mountain bikers as that road is part of very popular loop. It also brings people closer to some often overlooked crags like Crag X and Easter Island. Trail work on the Loop Trail has also been very positive.

There has also been a ton of scrubbing, entire crags have reappeared out from under the moss. Harry Young in particular deserves a great deal of thanks for this. The Funarama crag, for example, is now almost entirely scrubbed. New route activity has also flourished with much activity on the right side of Penny Lane and others scattered around. Between the scrubbing and the new routes I wouldn't be surprised if there is 20% more climbing available now compared to three years ago. One thing that will keep the moss from taking over again as quickly has been some judicious pruning of trees. Many formerly shaded and gloomy crags get good sun now.