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DescriptionThis semi-residential area of Squamish has a large concentration of small crags (twenty or more depending on how you count). They tend to be single pitch, but there are a few multi-pitch routes. Getting ThereDriving north into Squamish, after passing the Chief, the hospital sign, and going over a bridge, you come to a traffic light. The intersection has a McDonalds and a mall on the left. Go right onto Logger's Lane and follow the curve of the road around left. A few hundred meters down the road there will be a turnoff to the right marked with a sign that indicates the climbers parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Smoke Bluffs:
Cat Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Neat and Cool
Laughing Crack 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Wall Area
Pixie Corner 5.8- Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet Pixie Corner
Quarryman 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Penny Lane
Wonderland 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 125 feet Wall Area
Wonderland 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Pixie Corner
Penny Lane 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Penny Lane
Smoke Bluff Connection 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches Wall Area
Flying Circus 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Neat and Cool
Neat and Cool 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Neat and Cool
Split Beaver 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Split Beaver
Supervalue 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Boulder Gully
Popeye and the Raven 5.10c Sport, 70 feet Penny Lane
Climb & Punishment 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Penny Lane
Partners In Crime 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Penny Lane
Electric Ball 5.11b PG13 Trad, 75 feet Octopus Garden
Yorkshire Gripper 5.11b Trad Penny Lane
Crime Of The Century 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Penny Lane
Featured Route For The Smoke Bluffs
The Zip 5.10a International : Canada : ... : The Zip
It's impossible to miss this climb once at the crag. Start by scrambling onto the obvious ledge. The hand and finger locks on this crack are great, but it's too small for solid foot jams in most places. Small edges provide thin but adequate feet in most places...except the crux. A very fun and well protected climb. It might be a tough on-sight for a beginning 10a leader, but that shouldn't deter anyone from trying....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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