|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||benjaminleaton on Jun 13, 2012|
|Comments on The Smell||Add Comment|
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From: SL UT
Sep 24, 2012
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
F.A. Tedd Thompson
There used to be a pit toilet near the base of this route- the smell.
By Eric Schnepel
Sep 17, 2016
This is a fantastic route! I fear it is not climbed as much as is warranted by its quality due to its solitary location. The only reason I was drawn in was because of it's proximity to our campsite (#2). The low boulder problem is hard and fun, and the climbing above is sustained, powerful, and enjoyable. That said, after sending it, I have a few updates that I'd like to post as I found a number of things to be contrary to the route description above.
For one, I believe a stronger emphasis should be made on the fact that you will likely hit the ground if you blow it approaching the third bolt (unless your belayer pulls some fancy gritstone maneuver and jumps off the belay ledge, that is). Luckily, contrary to the description above, I did not find the clip to be awkward or strenuous in the least. There is a nice sidepull jug directly next to the bolt and great feet. As long as nothing breaks, it shouldn't be a problem.
Also, I'm not sure about going left after the last bolt... It may be possible, but you'd basically have to climb into a gritty hueco filled with birds nests. I found it preferable to trend just a hair right at the last bolt and onto the white slab. The edges are small but positive, and the climbing is no harder than 11-. This method led me nicely to the lip of the rock and allowed me to clip the anchors without having to top out and walk over. This method did not involve any shenanigans and seemed like the logical line.