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This is one of those hidden gems of Thunder Ridge. Doesn't look like much from the ground but has excellent steep 5.9 climbing. The route wanders around and has a couple of ways to go. Start 10' right of Evil Genius at a right-leaning ramp with a bolt. Climb through the crumbly section and onto a ledge with a good crack on the right side. Follow this left-facing dihedral for about 10' and look for an inobvious leftward traverse move that will take you back towards the main chimney system. Continue up using jugs and the awesome "pinky hold" to the right of the main wide crack. Big holds along a crack system lead back right and up to the anchors.
Variation: After leaving the ledge and heading up the left-facing dihedral - climb another 10' past the standard traverse and then go left.
East side of Alligator Lounge, starts 10' right of Evil Genius.
Pro to 3 1/2" with plenty of long runners to reduce rope drag.
|By Kevin McLaughlin|
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 10, 2010
This route is a great 5.9 - varied, steep , and long for the area . Lots of moves and choices for the leader . Probably Thunder's best at this grade .
|By rob bauer|
From: Golden, CO
May 23, 2010
And, if you're having too much fun in the crack to notice the traverses, continue up the widening crack until it rounds over to a ledge. Up a lieback crack (#3 Camalot was perfect) to a sloping ledge, then rightish up to the top; anchors are just to the left. (So close, that if I'd moved left at the sloping ledge I'd have come up right under the anchor.) I belayed at top to minimize rope drag. (You'll rap right down past the original crack you could have climbed.) Lotta fun!