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The Sleeper 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 968
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: From the starting ledge looking up

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start in the crack climbing up from the end of the ledge. Place a piece of protection before starting up as a fall off the ledge would be bad for both the climber and probably the belayer. The toughest moves are getting up into the crack, but there are some great holds along the crack. About 2/3 of the way up, the crack splits in two - one continues straight up, the other slants to the right. While both cracks are about the same difficulty, the one of the right is better. Layback along the crack and continue to the large ledge at the top. Walk off.

Location 

From the tree and black water streak that mark Spinning Back Kick, continue down the wall past a second left facing flake to a ledge and a drop off. Rising up from the end of the ledge is a slight left leaning crack that leads to a small ledge 15 feet up.

Protection 

Standard rack, anchor off trees.


Photos of The Sleeper Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Checking out the start of The Sleeper.  Foolish is...
Checking out the start of The Sleeper. Foolish is...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crack gets really positive at this point.
The crack gets really positive at this point.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Sleeper, Arm Bar, and Foolish.
BETA PHOTO: The Sleeper, Arm Bar, and Foolish.

Comments on The Sleeper Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Walden
From: Soldotna, Alaska
Sep 14, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Really awesome route! Could be tough for a new leader. Right at the start place a #2 in the crack head high to prevent a fall into the crevasse below. Really positive layback at the top. After the #2 to start there is a spot for a #1 on the first ledge, after that smaller cams and nuts.
By Henry Holub
From: Altus, Ok
Nov 6, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Super-awkward start moving from the ledge into/onto a flake. Above that the climbing gets easier. working around the flake up top can be a bit challenging as well. The Oklahoma Select guidebook lists it at 5.6, but I think that first move definitely hits more 5.7. The opening move on this climb was more difficult than any of the moves on the 5.7 High Anxiety

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