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El Capitan Base Routes
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Bluffer, The 
Captain Hook, Left 
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Delectable Pinnacle, Right  
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La Arista 
La Cosita, Left 
La Cosita, Right 
La Escuela 
Little John, Left 
Little John, Right 
Mark of Art 
Masquerade/Call Me Ishmael 
Moby Dick 
Moby Dick, Left 
Party Mix 
Peter Left 
Peter Pan 
Pine Line 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Left 
Pterodactyl Terrace, Right 
Reeds Leads 
Sacherer Cracker 
Salathe (pitch 1) 
Seedy Leads 
Short But Thin 
Slack ( center), The 
Slack, Left, The 
Sparkling Give-away 
West Buttress (pitch 1&2) 

The Slack ( center) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958 FFA Pat Ament and Larry Dalke 1967
Page Views: 677
Submitted By: Alexey on Apr 20, 2009
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First or one of the first Yosemite free 5.11. Later was downgraded to 10d, since block of rock fell off leaving place for hand jam - making crux sequence shorter.
I found this climb good and clean and underrated in quality in Reid Book. At least one star out of 3 would be fair.

Pithch 1: Still hard 10d off the ground: first 15 feet with potential decking if your gear placement is bad. fingertips, figers and good foot work bring you to good handjam. After that climb relatively easy wide cracks which become higher up 5.8 chimney. 150feet. 2 bolts Anker ( shared with Sacherer)
Pitch 2: ( link p2&3 in the book) Start easy climbing inside of the chimney (5.5) and after 70-80 feet you reach the ledge where you have the choice: a) climb wide crack in the corner or b) climb crack in the left wall with thin start. I climbed left one which can be rated 5.8- 5.9. 150 feet. Natural anker.
Pitch 3: Start with easy climbing to 5.7 chimney. Clinb to the top of the Pinnacle to new 2 rappel bolts.

We rappel down and left to top (third pitch) of La Esuella with one 70m rope. And from there tree more rappels to the ground.

From the top of the Slack the other option to rappel down "Slack Left" with 2 ropes.
Also you can use this chance and check ( you can TR) last pitch of Slack Left - 10b Chimney/Flare/OW - older brother of Ahab


Climb located just left from Sacherer Cracker and share the base and first pitch bolted anchors. You can go Sacherer to Slack with same gear you racked up for Sacherer


double from green Alien to #3. One each #4, #5, #6 (big gear for pitch 1 only)

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By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 21, 2012

FA: Charlie Raymond, Wally Reed, 1958