The Skin Flute Couloir
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1400', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a AI3 M2 [details]|
|FA: ||Justin Watts, Derek Wolfe, |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring or Late Fall|
|Page Views: ||849|
|Submitted By: ||Furthermore on May 21, 2012|
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BETA PHOTO: Route topo.
From the base of Fluted's East Face, climb the prominent couloir in the middle of the face just south of the summit.
The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered. After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered. Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right. The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top. If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.
The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb. From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.
The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.
The route is located in the center of Fluted's East Face.
A limited rack with a few cams/stoppers and 2 ice screws.
Martersteck climbing the WI3 pitch.