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Fluted Peak
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Skin Flute Couloir, The T 

The Skin Flute Couloir 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a AI3 M2 Steep Snow

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a AI3 M2 [details]
FA: Justin Watts, Derek Wolfe,
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring or Late Fall
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Furthermore on May 21, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Route topo.

Description 

From the base of Fluted's East Face, climb the prominent couloir in the middle of the face just south of the summit.

The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered. After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered. Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right. The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top. If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.

The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb. From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.

The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.

Location 

The route is located in the center of Fluted's East Face.

Protection 

A limited rack with a few cams/stoppers and 2 ice screws.


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Crux area of the climb.
Crux area of the climb.

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