The Siren is a wild and intimidating 300' tower located in an unnamed side canyon in Desolation Canyon. At first glance the rock quality looks very poor, but it cleans up well and we were really impressed with the quality of the rock and the climbing. The summit is very overhanging on all sides.
I first saw this tower while on a river trip I took back in 2006. We named it the Siren because it has been calling to me ever since.
Float the Green River through Desolation canyon to Mushroom Camp at approximately river mile 69. The camp is on river right about a half mile below Jack Creek rapid at a beach below a big double trunked Cottonwood Tree. The tower is briefly visible from the river way up a side canyon just before the camp site.
From the camp, walk 10 minutes or so up to the really cool mushroom shaped rock, which has some really nice petroglyphs. The tower is visible in the side canyon on the left. Walk an hour up a nice gravelly wash to a dryfall that stops progress. Here, you can either directly climb the dryfall via a highball boulder problem, or scramble up loose rock on either side. Bypass a second dryfall by scrambling on ledges to the left, and then make 3rd class moves to climb a third dryfall. There are two fixed pins at the top of the first dryfall to rap from on the descent.
The tower is obvious after climbing out of the third dryfall. The approach takes two to three hours depending on how long you take getting around the dryfall.
Pitch #1: Start with a big undercut move to reach a good jam and feet. Then follow the crack system up and right. Climb through the crux corner and mantle onto a ledge. The ledge is a Basalt layer and takes some interesting movement to move above. Near the top climb an undercut, wide crack through brown limestone. Some really cool face holds on the right ease the difficulty. Finish on a big brown ledge at 2 good(1/2inch) bolts. 5.10+.Pitch #2: Continue up the line left of the belay. ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
To clarify. When you reach the first dry water fall. You can climb it directly via a highball boulder problem, as mentioned.
To say you can scramble up loose rock on either side is a bit misleading. You can climb 5th class loose rock to get around it. I personally climbed something slightly down canyon, on the right(looking up canyon), that went. But it was 5.7/5.8ish, very loose and very traversing. The left side looked much worse and wasn't attempted. The best option was to go up the dry fall. Now that there is an anchor in place, grabbing the cordage near the lip might make this easier. The fall off the boulder problem, while high, is fairly flat and wouldn't be to big of a deal with a good spot.