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The Wicked Crag
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Sinister, The S 
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The Sinister 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Tom Gilje & Eric Decaria
Page Views: 2,266
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Oct 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Ben Riley climbs Sinister.

Description 

Tough looking start. May require a cheater stone for shorter folks.

Location 

This route is the furthest one right on the wall you encounter right after you climb down the approach ladder. Some locals may tell you it's 11d, but I've heard otherwise.

Protection 

6 or so bolts to anchors


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 25, 2011
By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Nov 3, 2008

Ahmmm, please stop the brutal inaccuracy.
By Brad Brandewie
Nov 3, 2008

If you haven't climbed the route yourself, then don't post it.

Brad
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 3, 2008

I did climb it. Feel free to add your opinion, as Mountain Project is a consensus website.
By Brad Brandewie
Nov 4, 2008

My sincere apologies Aimee.
I have enjoyed your contributions to the site. Thanks.

I posted that comment because there are several things in your description that make it seem like you have not climbed the route.

Brad
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 5, 2008

Nope, I tried it and it kicked my butt, so I did estimate the grade, but it certainly isn't 11d! Thanks for the apologies.
By Dan Phelps
Nov 5, 2008

I did the route. 11d is laughable. It's way harder. I wish there was one more bolt up top. It's not hard, but very entertaining.
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Nov 5, 2008

Who did the F.A.???
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jul 4, 2009

I've never heard this route called 11d. It has a very hard start (v5/6-ish), with precarious feet and sidepulls. After the crux, it eases quite a bit, but the bolts are quite far apart. Blowing any clip after the crux would be a bad thing.

I'm not sure about the FA, but I do know that Dean Potter soloed it years ago, and that the mags made a pretty big deal about it.
By Bernie LaForest
Nov 1, 2009

Tom Gilje did the FA. I'm thinking it's 4 bolts and 12b.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

way less "PG 13" than many of the other sport bolted routes at mill creek (think technochrist). if you can send the crux, then the top 5.10 runouts should be way chill. if you can't send it, you should be on something easier! :)
By ljh
Jan 25, 2011

Tom and ED established this route and did in fact call it 11d.
The ground used to be a bit higher (as maybe were the ones who rated it such ;-) at the start. Sure made 11d feel a lot easier everywhere else.
Consensus: v5 to 11- to 5.10, so interpret as you will from that.
Yes, 4 bolts. 1st one is standard to stick-clip.