The Sickle 5.10c
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Ryan Jaret on-sighting one of the sweetest hand cr...
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Description A few hundred yards to the left of Sinestra in a large, left-facing corner with thin seams on the left wall. Beautiful handjamming in a varnished corner. Enjoy the many face holds for your feet on the left wall, or just ignore them and motor up the crack.
One 60m rope was just barely too short for the rappel. A 70m rope would be perfect.
Great hands in a corner. Start by climbing on top of the broken pillar/ledge and then into great sustained hands in the corner with stemming and jamming possible between the corner and the small splitter on the face to the left.
Protection Mostly #2.5 Friends.
Several gold Camalots, a couple reds and the book says blue Camalots but you can get by without.
Location A minute or two walk left from Sinestra, where the cliffband turns to a more southern aspect for a bit. This is the next route left of Pull Left.
Climbs the hand crack in the left-facing corner with another, smaller splitter on the face to the left. Starts above a broken pillar/ledge.
Jason finishing an unnamed 5.10 crack on the Origi...
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Another shot of the unnamed 10c on the Original Me...
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BETA PHOTO: unnamed 10+
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Mike Keegan leading The Sickle at OMW. Great hands...
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The Sickle.
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Looking down the route from the top out, awesome c...
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Brennan Crellin onsight
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By Joe Gartner
Aug 13, 2003
| I think you can TR this route with a 60 m if you belay on top of the big boulder at the start. A little bit of a pain to downclimb from there but not hard. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Feb 25, 2007
| Maybe 100 yards left of Sinestra, tops. If you hit a plaqued flare called 'Mad Cow Disease' then you just walked past it. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.10
| AWESOME route. Soft for the grade for IC. Begin with a short section of thin hands (#0.75-#1 camelot) to a nice rest. A pod is easily passed with face features. Then enjoy 80+ feet of cruising on perfect hands with a nice stem rest every 5-10 feet. The crack gradually goes from tight #2 camelots to tight #3 camelots the whole way. Enjoy the plentiful rests. A #4 camelot might be useful in the first pod, but the climbing is easy. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| An excellent crack! Climb to the top of the boulder for a comfortable belay and also so you can use a single 60 meter rope. The majority of the route was great hands and the cracks to the left provided plenty of rests along the way. |
By tenesmus
Nov 17, 2007
| I wanted another #3 camalot or two than Bloom's recommendation (for the ending). Really fun climbing. Just use a 70. |
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 9, 2008
| It just shows you how common perfect-hand-crack-dihedrals are at the creek- this is one of the finest and doesn't have a name! |
By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Aug 15, 2009
| This is now called "The Sickle" in Bloom"s new guide. Great climb! I used only one #3 near the top and #2's for the rest of the hands section |
By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Oct 1, 2009
| It was so much cooler without the name. |
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Mar 24, 2010
rating: 5.10
| Great route, gotta be one of the best 10's at the Creek. |
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 24, 2010
| This route is called The Sickle in the new guide. |
By Cody Ferguson
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 11, 2010
| Classic Indian Creek! Lot's of BD #2s (6 I think). |
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c
| Climbed this route last Oct 9th, great route, seems easier than the grade considering the rail for the left foot. We never set any BD 3, the pods would allow BD 3 or 4 though. Crux was leaving the lower block trying to get the 1 pc high enough to eliminate any rope drag |
By Brian Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2013
| The gear given by the Bloom guidebook is very wrong. It says to bring several .75 & 1 camalots and only a few 2's. Bring a .75 and 1 for the beginning, a possible 4 camalot for the pod (depending on your comfort level), 1-2 blue camalots and the rest is all yellow. |
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10
| You're right, the 2nd edition was pretty much spot on, suggesting 2 2.0 Friends, 5 2.5's, 2 3's and 2 3.5's. The new Camalot edition isn't even close. |
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