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The Sickle 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,243
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 3, 2002

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Ryan Jaret on-sighting one of the sweetest hand cr...

Description 

A few hundred yards to the left of Sinestra in a large, left-facing corner with thin seams on the left wall. Beautiful handjamming in a varnished corner. Enjoy the many face holds for your feet on the left wall, or just ignore them and motor up the crack.

One 60m rope was just barely too short for the rappel. A 70m rope would be perfect.

Great hands in a corner. Start by climbing on top of the broken pillar/ledge and then into great sustained hands in the corner with stemming and jamming possible between the corner and the small splitter on the face to the left.


Protection 

Mostly #2.5 Friends.

Several gold Camalots, a couple reds and the book says blue Camalots but you can get by without.


Location 

A minute or two walk left from Sinestra, where the cliffband turns to a more southern aspect for a bit. This is the next route left of Pull Left.

Climbs the hand crack in the left-facing corner with another, smaller splitter on the face to the left. Starts above a broken pillar/ledge.



Photos of The Sickle Slideshow Add Photo
Another shot of the unnamed 10c on the Original Meat Wall in Indian Creek. Spectuacular climb!
Another shot of the unnamed 10c on the Original Me...
The Sickle.
The Sickle.
Looking down the route from the top out, awesome climb
Looking down the route from the top out, awesome c...
Mike Keegan leading The Sickle at OMW. Great hands, perfect day!
Mike Keegan leading The Sickle at OMW. Great hands...
Jason finishing an unnamed 5.10 crack on the Original Meat Wall
Jason finishing an unnamed 5.10 crack on the Origi...
unnamed 10+
BETA PHOTO: unnamed 10+
Brennan Crellin onsight
Brennan Crellin onsight
Comments on The Sickle Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2014
By Joe Gartner
Aug 13, 2003

I think you can TR this route with a 60 m if you belay on top of the big boulder at the start. A little bit of a pain to downclimb from there but not hard.

By Rob Dillon
Feb 25, 2007

Maybe 100 yards left of Sinestra, tops. If you hit a plaqued flare called 'Mad Cow Disease' then you just walked past it.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Mar 30, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

AWESOME route. Soft for the grade for IC. Begin with a short section of thin hands (#0.75-#1 camelot) to a nice rest. A pod is easily passed with face features. Then enjoy 80+ feet of cruising on perfect hands with a nice stem rest every 5-10 feet. The crack gradually goes from tight #2 camelots to tight #3 camelots the whole way. Enjoy the plentiful rests. A #4 camelot might be useful in the first pod, but the climbing is easy.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

An excellent crack! Climb to the top of the boulder for a comfortable belay and also so you can use a single 60 meter rope. The majority of the route was great hands and the cracks to the left provided plenty of rests along the way.

By tenesmus
Nov 17, 2007

I wanted another #3 camalot or two than Bloom's recommendation (for the ending). Really fun climbing. Just use a 70.

By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 9, 2008

It just shows you how common perfect-hand-crack-dihedrals are at the creek- this is one of the finest and doesn't have a name!

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Aug 15, 2009

This is now called "The Sickle" in Bloom"s new guide. Great climb! I used only one #3 near the top and #2's for the rest of the hands section

By Timmamok
From: Durango, CO
Oct 1, 2009

It was so much cooler without the name.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Mar 24, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great route, gotta be one of the best 10's at the Creek.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Mar 24, 2010

This route is called The Sickle in the new guide.

By Cody Ferguson
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 11, 2010

Classic Indian Creek! Lot's of BD #2s (6 I think).

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbed this route last Oct 9th, great route, seems easier than the grade considering the rail for the left foot. We never set any BD 3, the pods would allow BD 3 or 4 though. Crux was leaving the lower block trying to get the 1 pc high enough to eliminate any rope drag

By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2013

The gear given by the Bloom guidebook (camalot edition) is very wrong. It says to bring several .75 & 1 camalots and only a few 2's. Bring a .75 and 1 for the beginning, a possible 4 camalot for the pod (depending on your comfort level), 1-2 blue camalots and the rest is all yellow.

By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

You're right, the 2nd edition was pretty much spot on, suggesting 2 2.0 Friends, 5 2.5's, 2 3's and 2 3.5's. The new Camalot edition isn't even close.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 18, 2014

You can also supplement protection with some .5 Camalots in the left-hand crack (sling em out).

I didn't find the size to become baggy golds til the top. The last 20-30 feet was also the crux for me, although the start is no give-away either.