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 ADVANCED
The Roof Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney Sweep T 
Double D TR 
Jam Crack T,TR 
Roof, The T,TR 
Shoulder, The T,TR 
Triple D TR 

The Shoulder 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,402
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Excellent jamming on perfect rock
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the crack climb of Dixon Lake. Fingers to fist, this crack climb is truly a classic and a standard for the grade. It is the very clean crack on the right side of The Roof wall. The crux is entering the bulge portion of the crack, halfway up. A right foot is the key before liebacking a move or two to a couple of left traversing moves at the finish. Highly Recommended.


Protection 

Pro for anchor, or standard rack for lead.



Photos of The Shoulder Slideshow Add Photo
The Shoulder (5.10a) ascends the rightmost crack in the image...outstanding!
BETA PHOTO: The Shoulder (5.10a) ascends the rightmost crack i...
FF/A Off The Shoulder, '85.
BETA PHOTO: FF/A Off The Shoulder, '85.
Moving through the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Moving through the crux.
Steve K. cleans Off The Shoulder. In the background you can see the oak tree that was growing out of the crack on the yet to be climbed Worsman's Roof.
BETA PHOTO: Steve K. cleans Off The Shoulder. In the backgroun...
FF/A Off The Shoulder, '85.
BETA PHOTO: FF/A Off The Shoulder, '85.
Tucker Tech on The Shoulder.
Tucker Tech on The Shoulder.
Comments on The Shoulder Add Comment
Show which comments
By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 5, 2007

Recent email on Dixon Lake...

RE: rc.com post
From: ANDREW REDDING (bajaandy@hughes.net)
Add contact
Sent:Thu 11/29/07 12:57 PM
Reply-to:ANDREW REDDING (bajaandy@hughes.net)


To: illusiondweller@hotmail.com

"...The climb known now as "The Shoulder" was actually named "Off The Shoulder", due to the buldge at the crux that caused you to barn-door off the climb as you lie-backed your way up. That climb was probably one of the best climbs I ever had the honor of climbing first, both on top rope and on lead. Just a way fun climb.

I dug through some old photos and found a few of me getting the first lead of Off The Shoulder. They're dark and poor quality, so I doubt that they'd scan worth a darn. It's funny, cuz you can just make out that I'm wearing Boreal Fire climbing shoes. Talk about mid 80's high tech!

Anyway, look forward to chatting with you one of these days.

Andy"

By Steve Shumaker
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A few painful hand jams through the crux solve the barn door problem.

By johnnydanger
From: California
Jan 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Fun Lead two days ago. Liebacked all the way up. One hard move getting your foot up right where the crack turns. Once you get that move, its pretty mellow all the way up and across to the left to top-out. I used a small BD stopper at the start of the crack..a BD 0.3 a few feet above that. Then a BD #2 two feet above the crux. A BD #1 at the top right corner and last a draw or biener off webbing from the bolts for the no feet, hand over hand traverse left and then manteled it out.

By Noah Fogel
From: Cbad CA
Apr 8, 2012

super good warmup

By Ryan N
From: San Louis Obispo
Oct 13, 2012

Excellent climb for the grade. There's bomber pro the whole way up the crack. The last 5 feet seems insecure but it's all there. Small .5 to 2 camalots will sew it up nice.