|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006|
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|Comments on The Shoulder||Add Comment|
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From: Galloway, NJ
Dec 5, 2007
Recent email on Dixon Lake...
RE: rc.com post
From: ANDREW REDDING (email@example.com)
Sent:Thu 11/29/07 12:57 PM
Reply-to:ANDREW REDDING (firstname.lastname@example.org)
"...The climb known now as "The Shoulder" was actually named "Off The Shoulder", due to the buldge at the crux that caused you to barn-door off the climb as you lie-backed your way up. That climb was probably one of the best climbs I ever had the honor of climbing first, both on top rope and on lead. Just a way fun climb.
I dug through some old photos and found a few of me getting the first lead of Off The Shoulder. They're dark and poor quality, so I doubt that they'd scan worth a darn. It's funny, cuz you can just make out that I'm wearing Boreal Fire climbing shoes. Talk about mid 80's high tech!
Anyway, look forward to chatting with you one of these days.
By Steve Shumaker
Jun 2, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|A few painful hand jams through the crux solve the barn door problem.|
Jan 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
|Fun Lead two days ago. Liebacked all the way up. One hard move getting your foot up right where the crack turns. Once you get that move, its pretty mellow all the way up and across to the left to top-out. I used a small BD stopper at the start of the crack..a BD 0.3 a few feet above that. Then a BD #2 two feet above the crux. A BD #1 at the top right corner and last a draw or biener off webbing from the bolts for the no feet, hand over hand traverse left and then manteled it out.|
By Noah Fogel
From: Cbad CA
Apr 8, 2012
|super good warmup|
By Ryan N
From: Bellingham, WA
Oct 13, 2012
|Excellent climb for the grade. There's bomber pro the whole way up the crack. The last 5 feet seems insecure but it's all there. Small .5 to 2 camalots will sew it up nice.|