Climb the right-leaning and ever-narrowing splitter crack with the crux coming at the end.
Cross the bridge near the end of the Canyon and scramble towards the climb as seen in the Beta Photo of the area. If you’re doing technical moves, you’re not taking the easiest way.
#1-#5 Camalots and stoppers. There is a bolted belay/rappel station at the top, which is shared with What Fools.
Ben Boykin getting near the crux.
A very beautiful crack indeed.
|By Tom Kelley|
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I first did this route in 1983, and it was common knowledge then that, although it did not appear in the guidebook at the time, it had been climbed off and on by those tryng to escape the heat since at least the 1960s (it stays shady most of the day). Nice enough route, albeit a little too short. I climbed it for the second time in almost 30 years this past weekend. It is still harder than it looks, but ignoring the mosquitos was probably the crux.
From: Loveland, Colorado
Sep 12, 2011
In view of Tom's posting, I've changed the FA information.