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The Quarry Wall
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Short Tour, The 
Silver Bullet 
Something to Do 
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Unsorted Routes:

The Short Tour 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Menendez, Crill, Caylor, Gallagher?
Season: colder times
Page Views: 1,887
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 6, 2009
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Short Tour.

Description 

This is the "perfect" hand crack, 4th route from the right in the Quarry area. Throw in a #0.75 from the ground. Start up on the left, left hand cross over jam, get your feet into the crack, jam slippery flared hands. Mid-crack is probably the crux with a long reach to a mediocre jam. Cruise to the Fixe rap bolts.

Others have also commented that this route feels stiff for a 9 (given in the guidebook). Apparently some solo the route (not me). Personally, I thought it was hard for 5.9.


Location 

This is the 5th route from the right.


Protection 

Set of cams to a #2 Camalot with some extras in the fat fingers to hands sizes.



Photos of The Short Tour Slideshow Add Photo
Thom Engelbach leading the Short Tour.
Thom Engelbach leading the Short Tour.
The Bowels is the double crack system on the far right and The Short Tour is the middle crack system of this photo.
The Bowels is the double crack system on the far r...
Top roping the Short Tour.
Top roping the Short Tour.
Approaching the crux.
Approaching the crux.
Jonathan at the top.
Jonathan at the top.
Comments on The Short Tour Add Comment
Show which comments
By kevin fox
From: parker
Sep 6, 2009

Pretty fun...brought the weed wacker for the vegetation mid-way.

By Shawn Mitchell
From: Broomfield
Sep 12, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

If this is 5.9, Blind Faith on the Bastille is 5.8.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Dec 22, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I have to agree with the other comments. This is a sandbag at 5.9. It is definitely harder than Super Crack or Blind Faith. The jams are perfect at some points but are flared and greasy in others. It is a worthy route, but don't go into it thinking it is 5.9.

By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This is harder than Marry Me Becky by at least a little bit. Long reaches to pretty good jams except at the crux. Get the next hand jam above the crux and it's all over. I onsighted P1 of Blind Faith while 3 goes on this one today and I haven't linked the crux perfectly.

Redpointed May 1. I could maybe see 10b though you better have crack skills to make it feel like that onsight. I think 10c is more reasonable. My partner today cruised my crux but struggled in the thin hands so big hands beware down low.

By George Bracksieck
Apr 14, 2013

I agree that this is harder than SC or BF or MMB, as stated above. Most jams are flaring and, because the crack slants to the right, I had to have the correct hand in the correct jam, in order to make the long crux reach, or else.... And there was nothing for the feet except for twisting the toes painfully into the slanting crack. I burned through a few tries to find the correct sequence.