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The Shmotem Pole
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High Man on the Shmotem Pole S 
Shmotem Pole, The T 

The Shmotem Pole 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Marcy and Geir
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,462
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 11, 2009

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Jim and Steve; Shmotem Pole summit 4.26....

Description 

A fun adventure climb up the largest tower in LDE. On the southern end of the west face of the tower, start at the obvious crack system.

Pitch 1 (5.10b, 110’): Climb the crack system past two bolts. Instead of climbing the difficult overhanging offwidth on the left, take the crack on the right (10b) and then step left to the main crack system on easier ground (5.8). You’ll arrive at a cave (The Shmotem Hole) – enter it and you’ll find the first belay anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 50’): Climb up through the ceiling of the cave to a ledge on the face. Clip a bolt and climb into an airy, exposed chimney past another bolt to an anchor.

Move the belay (stay roped up): Walk up into the notch and look to your right. You'll see the north face of the Shmotem Pole with a bolt on the right side about 15' up. To the right of the Shmotem Pole a second, smaller feature stands about as high as this bolt. Climb the smaller feature (a few 5.6 moves) to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10a, 90’): A really fun pitch. Step across from the belay and clip the bolt on the northwest corner of the Shmotem Pole. Move up four feet, then traverse directly left about eight feet to a ledge under an overhanging corner. Pull through this (crux) and follow the path of least resistance to the summit.

Descent:
Rappel to the top of pitch 2 (about 100').
Double-rope rappel to the ground (about 160').

Location 

See overview photo

Protection 

Standard rack, doubles of #2, #3 Camalots. One #4 & one #5 will help protect a wide but easy crack on pitch 1.


Photos of The Shmotem Pole Slideshow Add Photo
Roman and Jeff on top, taken from back up at the parking area. Tyler and Dylan also up on or near the summit, or just descended. Four on top nearing sunset, pretty sweet!
Roman and Jeff on top, taken from back up at the p...
last pitch step across
BETA PHOTO: last pitch step across
My very happy brother on top -- notice Ray mine way off in the distance!
My very happy brother on top -- notice Ray mine wa...
"Canada" Eric Ruljancich on pitch 1 of the Shmotem Pole
BETA PHOTO: "Canada" Eric Ruljancich on pitch 1 of the Shmotem...
DAS's interesting approach to getting into the crux ... will have to try next time around. Arjun up and right on High Man; pic also by Larry.
DAS's interesting approach to getting into the cru...
Dylan pulling through the crux of shmotem pole
Dylan pulling through the crux of shmotem pole
Hanna entering the Shmotem Hole after pausing to search for raptors. No, that's not slack in the rope, btw!
Hanna entering the Shmotem Hole after pausing to s...
Steve and Jim have conquered the Shmotem Pole
Steve and Jim have conquered the Shmotem Pole
The raptor's lair! Or, maybe just a buzzard...
The raptor's lair! Or, maybe just a buzzard...
DAS- Photo by Arjun
DAS- Photo by Arjun
Party of 3 on the Shmotem Pole on 2/8/14.
Party of 3 on the Shmotem Pole on 2/8/14.
last pitch
BETA PHOTO: last pitch
Chawn Harlow leading P3 of the Shmotem Pole; Geir on belay.
Chawn Harlow leading P3 of the Shmotem Pole@SEMICO...
Geir Hundal on the FA of the Shmotem Pole.
Geir Hundal on the FA of the Shmotem Pole.
Party of 3 on the Shmotem Pole 2/8/14.
Party of 3 on the Shmotem Pole 2/8/14.

Comments on The Shmotem Pole Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 18, 2012
By Chelsea Cook
Oct 25, 2009

This is one of the neatest climbs I have been on. That cave you crawl through to get back out on the face is the best! Thanks so much for having us out there. I can't wait to come back!
By David Arthur Sampson
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Once this climb cleans up it will be a great route.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 16, 2009

I'm a fan of the Schmotem Hole too :-) Pretty trippy stuff.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 16, 2009

My favorite parts of the Shmotem Pole:

P1 - entering the Shmotem Hole
P2 - exiting the Shmotem Hole
P3 - the step across, the roof and, of course, the amazing summit!
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I rate this climb 5.awesome!
By bio
From: mesa, az
Jan 16, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Still a lot of loose rock, two blocks came off and some large flakes, more are ready to go. Overall a fun route but fairly dirty. Exiting the cave and making the dirty (but well bolted)move above it was fun, as was the short 10a bulge on the last pitch. I used doubles to #3, nothing larger.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 22, 2010

I agree, Scott - the rock on the Shmotem Pole is the least desirable in LDE. Marcy and I got most of the big loose stuff cleaned up & the route should be relatively safe. Still it's an adventure route for solid trad leaders. The summit's worth it, though.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Feb 7, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Easily my favorite route out here. Interesting crux moves, lots of exposure, and a terrific summit.

A little bit dirty from the rains, but the difficult sections are all well-protected and on good rock - seems to be cleaning up nicely!
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Yes, truly a fantastic route! Especially awesome to think of Geir leading it from the ground up and going the off-width left-hand crack route. Wow. Nice bolt placement in the chimney down low, makes the crux bomber. Shmotem Hole is a delight and, yes, dirty from the rains a couple weeks ago. I didn't see Roman's comment about the register and so didn't check on it.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 22, 2010

Just did it yesterday. I think it will continue to clean up nicely, thanks for the route Geir/Marcy. Careful on the rappel, Lori threw off a large block on the way down. Bring the #4 and #5 for a safer adventure, I did not and wish I had. Never found the register.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 22, 2010

The register can be found in a crack behind the cairn on top (keeps it out of direct sunlight).
By Jimbo
Apr 27, 2010

Great adventure route. Awesome summit.
The cave belay and exit is outrageous as it gets.

I would skip the belay on the top of pitch 2 and just keep climbing to the bolts at the step across. Save yourself some time and hassle.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fabulous to get back on this climb after being away from LDE since April or so. It remains one of my favorite climbs and is in great shape. Just stellar and so much fun to wander about on!
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 27, 2010

Finally got up this one with David Arthur-I lead the first pitch, and DA lead the last two. It's always good to get up a tower, and this one is really FUN-beautiful views!!! Oh, and yes bring a 4 & 5 for the 1st pitch (though I brought two 5's and was very happy with that decision).
By jason sartor
Nov 27, 2010

Soon......very soon.
By jason sartor
Dec 12, 2010

And soon has come. Got on this one yesterday and had a blast! Nice variety on this route - whew! Crack, face, 'n bulge-pullin' sweetness. And don't forget the hole!

Nice, nice climb.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Dec 17, 2010

Way to Go, Catherine and Sartor!!!!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

exciting and fun route. Felt like a rhyolite version of a Sedona spire. Fairly clean, with only a few dirty bits but generally avoidable. The two cruxes are brief and protected well!

A few notes:

P1: save the #5 for the final 5.8 wide crack of the pitch.

P2: leave second rope and extra gear at rap-chains before the notch. Also, instead of moving the belay to the bolts at the step-across, another option is at a gear belay under the bolt in the notch. (couple of nuts / small cam in the horizontals).

P3: Don't need much gear for the last pitch. Maybe a couple of small cams, a 0.4, 0.75, #2, and #3.

Nice work Marcy and Geir for establishing this route!
By Justin York
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome route and spectacular summit. Pitch 1 was the best - interesting and thought-provoking moves at the crux.