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The Shire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Audie S 
Buffalo Crickets T 
Bulldozer S 
Earth-Bound Misfit S 
G-Man, The S 
K.S.B. S 
Miranda Rayne S 
My Name is Earl S 
Pee-Wee S 
Significant Other S 

The Shire Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.65214, -83.70995 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,641
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Jason Halladay, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Sep 9, 2010  with updates from George Grzyb
Forecast:
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Climber on KSB in the Red River Gorge

Description 

A short approach with a handful of easy to moderate routes make this crag a very popular destination. There are also a couple of harder options as well as the open project of Iron Mike, 5.13+ if you're feeling up to it. The Shire also offers some shady climbing options. Be sure to check out the area classics like Miranda Rayne and K.S.B.

Getting There 

From the Sore Heel Hollow parking lot, follow the signage located to the right of the kiosk, across a small stream and up the old road. You will pass Rival Wall and Courtesy Wall on the way.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.3 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Shire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Shire:
Audie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 35'   
Miranda Rayne   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bulldozer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   
The G-Man   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 40'   
K.S.B.   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Shire

Featured Route For The Shire
Rock Climbing Photo: KSB

K.S.B. 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Shire
Work fun iron edge pulling past long moves on a steep face to a good rest. Move up and left, then traverse right fighting the pump to eventually reach to the large pockets that lead to the finish of the route....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

Photos of The Shire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Shire in Red River Gorge
The Shire in Red River Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Friends in the trees. 5/12/2012
Friends in the trees. 5/12/2012

Comments on The Shire Add Comment
Show which comments
By sgauss
May 28, 2008
Note that the instructions in the guidebook to this crag are confusing at best, and there is a problem with the topo. The key is to follow the right fork in the trail at the big boulder after the road changes to a foot path. And realize that route number 1, "My Name is Earl", 5.11c, is about 30 feet uphill on a corner from where it's marked, and the topo numbers, at least for routes 1-6 should be numbered 2-7.
By danpierce
From: Cleveland, OH
Jun 3, 2008
The guide book offers a good description of how to find this area. Once parked in the Sore Heel area take the trail at the end of the parking lot that goes across the stream. Stay on the trail until it breaks to a foot path. There will be a 'fin shaped boulder' on the left at a fork in the trail. Veer right. Then take the first small trail on your left hand side. The trail hits the wall right in the middle. You have 2 5.10's right in front of you. There is a project and a 5.10d to the right. The rest of the climbs are to the left.

If you take the left side of the trail when you hit the wall and walk past the first face you hit the North 40 wall.
By sgauss
Sep 2, 2008
The trail was redone as part of the Trails Day since I was there in May. There was a bunch of work done to block climber trails, make the main branch more obvious, plus the trail nicely switch backs, which should limit erosion. The path leads in towards the base of the wall below the rockhouse.

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