Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bent Tree Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kopley's Corner T,TR 
Longhorn T 
Shield Direct, The T 
Shield, The T,TR 
Snow Easy Finish T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Shield Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Sep 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Bent Tree Area at Little Stony Man with The Shield...

Description 

Move up through easy ground to the inside corner with a smooth face to the right. Follow the corner up, passing an old pin at about mid-height. Make a few awkward moves to gain a stance below the roof and place some good gear.

Pull the roof (crux) using a thin rail, some finger-locks and a pinch on a block. Small feet but it's all there. Once you gain a stance above the roof, follow the corner directly above (don't go left...more rope drag) and finish up to the top.

Location 

Begin in the same area where Kopley's Corner and Longhorn start. Look for an inside corner with a smooth face to the right and an obvious overhang above that looks like a blocky "shield".

Protection 

nuts, tricams, cams up to #2 BD size and small cams (C3s or Metolius).


Comments on The Shield Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Sep 30, 2013

Quality route, one of the best here. Surprisingly, the roof is spot on at Seneca 9+, hard but do-able. Fun moves up the corner then a hard sequence and above your gear at the roof. Just keep moving and don't get pumped out!