The Sheep Buggerer
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Gain access to Sun Deck Ledge (the broad ledge that yields access to the routes on the Northern sector of the Crag Ranch). SB is the third route from the left taking the unpleasant-looking left-facing corner.
Grunt your way up this awkward corner to a hands-off rest below a small bulge with excellent rock. Campus-style moves on nice door-jam edges comprise the brief crux to the anchors. Most of this route is less than pleasant, but the crux sequence at the top makes this route worth doing.
The Crag Ranch is on the same ridge as the fire tower. From the meadow, follow cairns south and slightly east. Target Sun Deck Ledge by aiming for a massive vertical ``bullet'' formation. Access to the ledge is just right of this formation.
About a half-dozen draws to the anchors.
|Comments on The Sheep Buggerer
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
this would be a good first project route for somebody breaking into the grade. it is fairly short, there is easy access to the anchors for toproping/scoping/hanging draws/retrieving draws/etc. the crux is pretty straightforward and it is well protected. a nice selection of other routes on the sundeck ledge for your partner to climb while you work this one. do it!