|Type: ||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Samet, Chris Weidner, Cameron Cross, Andy Mann, Paul Glover|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring, summer, fall|
|Page Views: ||6,810|
|Submitted By: ||Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Derek Franz on "The Shaft".
This is the leftmost tufa feature on the north face of Dinosaur Rock. It shares its first 45 feet with Patience Face, but where Patience Face moves right, head straight up onto "The Shaft." Love it up... continuous and physical.
This is on the left side of the north face of Dinosaur Rock.
Please access this climb and Pretty in Pinkler only from the switchback along the Mallory Cave Trail. That is, don't approach up from the toe of Dinosaur Rock or walk down that way when done climbing. It's very steep there and will only contribute to erosion.
1. Ascend the west face of Dinosaur Rock (4th class/5.0). Drop over the summit to a small ledge one the east face, eight feet down.
2. On this ledge, tie a rigging rope (static line) through a hole/thread in a big flake. You could back this up with cams or other flakes/horns there. Rap due east down this line, along the slab of Dinosaur Rock.
3. About 100 feet down, you'll build your back-up/directional anchor in a good crack over the lip above the finish. Use medium cams here in a good slot.
4. Rap a little more from here to get situated with your ropes on the lip. Drop a 60-meter toprope down.
5. On the way down you'll want a Metolius #4 TCU and, lower, a yellow C3 as directionals.
Now: 10 bolts.
|By Ryan F.|
From: Tucson, Arizona
Aug 18, 2010
I'll bet people would enjoy this climb more if it was bolted. Sounds like you guys got some strict rules out there. Ouch.
Sep 24, 2010
This is now (9/24/10) a lead climb, with 10 bolts to double-bolt anchors at the lip. You need a 60-meter rope. Bolted and climbed by Paul G and Matt S.
A million thanks to OSMP and Rick Hatfield, the Flatirons Climbing Council, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new routes in the Flatirons.
Enjoy the climb!
|By Area Dan|
Oct 2, 2010
The Shaft is awesome and quite clean considering how recently it was bolted - no reason to wait on more traffic.
Thanks for putting this up.
|By Matt Henderson|
Oct 11, 2010
Another great line at Dino Rock - fun and bolted perfectly. Climbing turns exceptional at the upper arete/bulge/tufa section, and it's
nice having a line a little easier on this face. Thanks, guys, for putting it up.
|By Aeon Aki|
Oct 12, 2010
Good climbing but the consistency is broken by a huge no hands rest before the crux. I would have called it quits at the last bolt placement as the additional moves to the chains add no difficulty except for an awkward clip to claim the send. Still, a nice pitch with plenty of tricky moves.
Oct 12, 2010
Thanks for the comments, Ian.
We had debated where the anchors should be, but put them high — top of the wall — to be consistent with our FHRC application and with the other Dino Rock climbs, which also go to the lip of the north face. If you get over your foot and reach left around the arete, there are some good sidepull crimps that making clipping the anchors a snap.
I think this adds one more 5.10/5.11 crux, too, which is nice.
|By Matt Kelley|
Oct 26, 2010
Superb route. Thanks to Paul and Matt. One or two of the hangars are loose. I'd suggest bringing a wrench to tighten them up if you plan on getting on The Shaft.
|By Dan Hickstein|
Nov 8, 2010
Excellent route! Thanks for putting it up!
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2011
This route is awesome. I can't believe it's so new. Thanks for putting it up. As of yesterday (May 10th, 2011) all of the bolts and hangers felt solid. Do NOT read further if you do not want beta. I always find it interesting to read other climbers beta and to have solid route descriptions in guide books so hopefully this is helpful for some..... Climb an easy but harder than it looks section for the first 2 bolts getting close to a rotten, right-facing corner. From here, if you're pumped, you can stuff your left leg up under a large block/flake and get a bomber and comfortabled no hands rest. This felt unnecessary but still fun to get it. And I have seen some people miss it and hang a bolt or two after so try getting it. From there, you traverse right on crimps and good feet for several bolts til you hit a huge ledge. From the ledge, get high feet and clip the bolt at the bottom of the tufa and arete so you're protected for you rest. Once clipped, you can climb right about 10 feet into a nice little alcove where you can get a no hands standing or seated rest. Take it, because the next section climbing on the tufa is pretty full on for about 30 feet and is definitely the hardest part of the route. Though there doesn't seem to be any overly difficult moves, the pump is maddening until you pull over the final bulge. Just over the bulge and a little travere right to some nice jugs to another ledge. From there, take a little rest before doing the last 2 moves to the upper anchors. I have heard some people have difficulty making the clip. For this, look far left and you will see a chalked hold that is a good crimp kind of sidepull. It is easy clipping the anchors from this handhold, and the feet are solid. Overall, a really good route with fun climbing and fun rests right when you need it. I would imagine that over time some of the holds down low will break off, because there is a lot of questionable rock down low, but the higher you climb the better the route gets. Great route, though. Do it!!!
Jul 8, 2011
APPROACH NOTE: Please access this climb and Pretty in Pinkler only from the switchback along the Mallory Cave Trail. That is, don't approach up from the toe of Dinosaur Rock or walk down that way when done climbing. It's very steep there and will only contribute to erosion.
|By Steve Annecone|
Jul 23, 2011
Outstanding route with lots of interesting and varied moves, and a huge pump factor at the end! I can't think of a better sport route in Boulder. Thanks to Matt et al, and OSMP for making this route happen!
|By Spencer Anderson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 18, 2011
Wow! Best 12b sport route in the Front Range? Probably!
|By Chris Archer|
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b
Well done, Matt! Outstanding route! When is the Patience Face going in? Many thanks for all your hard work establishing quality climbs for the community.
Sep 2, 2011
Glad you like the route, Chris! Patience Face passed at the last FHRC meeting, so we plan to put it in once it warms up (spring 2012).
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2011
The undercling starting the climbing after the rest was pulled off the route over the weekend, but it should not affect the climb too much or change the grade. Almost hit a little girl at the base...careful out there.
Apr 10, 2012
We yarded off the loose block with the X between the first and second bolts today. What's remaining might (**might**) creak a little when pulled out on, especially the left side of the complex, but it is avoidable. Use caution, and if it still seems iffy then feel free to send the thing.
Nov 21, 2012
Found: 11.20.12: One pretty big, needing-a-resole Miura, below The Shaft and Patience Face, Dinosaur Rock, Flatirons, Boulder, CO. PM me through the site if it's yours.