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Butler Corridor
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The Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: G. Gunder, P. Warrender, R. Grigsby, & G. Valle, 1987
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Nov 16, 2003
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Description 

This stellar right-slanting finger / hand crack is on the west side of the corridor at the north end. Solid hand jams and finger locks are encountered to the top. The sharp crystals inside the crack may warrant protective tape for your hands. Great climb - 3 out of 5 stars.


Protection 

Medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's, and cams to 2" will sew this crack up. Medium cams and long runners to sling a horn work well for an anchor. Rappel off of runners (with chain links) that are threaded around the base of a large boulder about 20'left of the finish .



Comments on The Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction) Add Comment
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By Murf
Dec 8, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Thin hands, fairly continuous moves. Rock is sharp, however.

By Randy
May 21, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Actually, a pretty decent route and solid for the grade.

3 of 5 stars.