The Secret of Mother Butler (aka Appetite for Destruction)  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  G. Gunder, P. Warrender, R. Grigsby, & G. Valle, 1987 Submitted By:  Vernon Stiefel on Nov 16, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking for a secure foot placement within the cra...

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Description 

This stellar right-slanting finger / hand crack is on the west side of the corridor at the north end. Solid hand jams and finger locks are encountered to the top. The sharp crystals inside the crack may warrant protective tape for your hands. Great climb - 3 out of 5 stars.

Protection 

Medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's, and cams to 2" will sew this crack up. Medium cams and long runners to sling a horn work well for an anchor. Rappel off of runners (with chain links) that are threaded around the base of a large boulder about 20'left of the finish .