The Second Coming  5.11b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Thomson & Wilkinson - 1976 Submitted By:  Josh Janes on Jan 28, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This excellent testpiece begins in the center of the back wall of the Pharos.

P1: Begin on Kingdom Come's crack and traverse up and left towards a small corner (crux). Continue up into the Judgement Day traverse, performing its crux mantle, and then head straight up to a good belay ledge. 90', 5.11b.

P2: Step airily out to the right to a finger crack and follow this up, generally staying just left of the arete. 100', 5.10+.

The crux, about 25' off the deck, was the scene of one of my scariest moments climbing: I headed up off the ground on pumpy terrain and got my first piece, a 0.75 Camalot in a slot, about 20' up and just before entering the crux sequence. Needing this slot for my hand, I wiggled the cam around a bit until I had room for my my fingers, and then climbed up past it. I didn't realize that I had actually dislodged the cam with my fidgeting until an accidental bump with my toe sent it sliding down the rope to the ground. I remember my belayer saying something like, "Don't fall," to which I screached in sweaty-palmed, cruxing terror, "I KNOW THAT!!!" Fortunately I made the next few moves and was able to fish in another piece.

Protection 

Standard Rack.