The Screamin Demon
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BETA PHOTO: The screamin Demon
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
This is a classic desert trad route!
Pitch one Climbs a 5.9 off width to a large ledge 100'
Pitch two starts in a squeeze that opens up to a chimney then constricts to a 4 camalot crack, climbs past a ledge through some thin hands a fingers stopping at a bolted anchor. 5.10
Pitch three climbs through big hands in a groove past some large loose blocks and tops out with some fingers.5.10+
There is some choss, but there is a lot of quality rock and climbing on this route.
The route is on the right side of the north face(facing the car park). Just follow the power lines. There is a power pole only 20' from the start of this route
Take a double set of cams from a #.5 to a #6, a set of stoppers, and some long runners. Rap the route or down climb the short chimney and traverse into the fuzzy bunny route in order to reach the true summit of the buttress. Then you rap the fuzzy bunny route on the river side of the buttress. Three raps to the ground either way you go.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch one
BETA PHOTO: upper pitches