The Scourge  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Unknown Submitted By:  Nathan Fisher on Apr 25, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Chicken Rodeo climbs the face to the big chickenhe...

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb into the Green Adjective Gully. On the right (west-facing) wall, just after a slippery 3rd class chimney problem, is this wall. The climb kind of scrambles up a ledge, and then it moves right and climbs a small chimney to a ledge. From here the real climbing begins. This climbs the grooves left of the nice big chickenhead, right at an overhang. Climb the 1st groove, pull a lieback, and a toe jam, then move to the left groove, and make another thin move or two, then wander right avoiding the final goove that turns horizontal at the end. Because of it's possible unprotectability, this climb makes an awsome warm-down climb after doing a larger climb that requires Schoolroom Rappel.

Protection 

2 bolts (Schoolroom Rappel) are at the top for an anchor. The climb itself looks tough to protect. A 3 1/2 cam for the top. Down low, and near the crux, maybe utilize some small Aliens. Be careful.