|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Kjell Swedin, Todd Bibler (1984)|
|Submitted By:||Bryan G on Jul 31, 2013|
|Comments on The Scimitar||Add Comment|
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By Mark van Eijk
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A route of superlative beauty and quality. Solid hand-fist stacks, knee locks, and excellent friction see you through the first half. It is only when the angle kicks back beyond vertical that the crack opens up into true wideness, just when you need it least. From here a combination of chicken wings, heel-toes, blood, and gumption are the way forward. I'm told it is easier to layback which would be very bold indeed.
Perhaps this route would be rated differently in Yosemite, where flannel-clad hardmen eat hard offwidths for breakfast, but 11b is more than fair for the rest of us. It is on a totally different level than split beaver or bop til you drop (10b), and a serious step up from hypertension (11a) or the big guy (indian creek 11-).
I am not as bold as Bryan, and placed a #4 and three #5s (two new, one old) in the first 40 feet. After this, shovelling #6s will see you through to the anchors. A number 3 bro works as well. Do not bother with anything smaller than one #4, it will not fit anywhere. The piton is 4 feet below the anchors, right next to perfect #6 placements. You can easily lower off this route with a 70m, a 60m MAY work, I don't know. If your friends are following you, leave a few directionals; the overhang is considerable and it would be very hard to reinsert yourself near the crux.