Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Middle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
I Have a Dream S,TR 
Lucid Dreaming S 
Nerve Damage T 
Plotinus T 
Rama T,S 
Scientist, The T,S 

The Scientist 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,469
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (93)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ethan getting into the crux on the Scientist..

  • Access via Boulder Falls closed MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a three star route that takes a direct line up the beautiful clean slab just left of "Rama" on the Plotinus Wall. Clip the first bolt and make a nice move up to the second bolt. Make a difficult move past the second bolt, then a another dicey move to reach the crack. Place the Aliens and move up over a small roof. Follow the line of bolts up the clean face to a two-bolt anchor. One of the best slab pitches in the canyon.

    Protection 

    Eight bolts, green and blue Aliens will get you to a two-bolt anchor.


    Photos of The Scientist Slideshow Add Photo
    Jeff McLeod on the Scientist, 5.11a.
    Jeff McLeod on the Scientist, 5.11a.
    Plotinus Wall, middle.
    BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, middle.
    Unknown climber clipping the 4th bolt on the Scientist.  (I thought this was a cool shot of the route hope you don't mind I post your photo unknown climber.)
    Unknown climber clipping the 4th bolt on the Scien...
    Mike Amato making the reach to the slanting crack by the second bolt.
    Mike Amato making the reach to the slanting crack ...
    Nick on "The Scientist".
    Nick on "The Scientist".
    (I thought this was a cool shot of the route hope you don't mind I post your photo unknown climber.)
    (I thought this was a cool shot of the route hope ...
    The Scientist! Fun route! Picture taken while we were warming up on Mr. Sandman.
    The Scientist! Fun route! Picture taken while we w...
    Veronica sending.
    Veronica sending.
    This high step didn't work for Paul. If you're tall enough (he isn't) you can reach a good edge with your left hand and crank onto the good foothold in the crack, thus avoiding any thin feet. But it's still very thin moving right from there to the other crack. That's how I did it the first time, but I now think it's easier to do the thin foot moves and make a less extreme step up.
    This high step didn't work for Paul. If you're tal...

    Comments on The Scientist Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 18, 2012
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Mar 17, 2003

    This route is truly one of the best slab climbs in the area. Bring one thin finger-size piece for the crack or face a fairly scary but moderate stretch for the third bolt. Superb rock and excellent climbing, only slightly marred by the last ledge. A must-do.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 11, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Good climb if you like small crimping. Actually, pretty good climb if you don't, but you probably won't on-sight it- because that's what kind of climb it is. I like this route, which seemed to be a cosmic premeditated revenge upon me for downgrading everything else at the cliff. You are going to 'nickle and dime' your way up the route, so take the appropriate shoes.

    If you like thin climbing (Eldo climbers, think 'Gravity's Angel' or 'Prince of Darkness') and want a bolt at your chest for the crux, this is 2*'s if you don't like thin stuff, it's one.

    Harder than Bobsled, Sleepless in Boulder, Tooth Fairy, etc... At 5'10" and even with a +6" ape index, I was 2" from the crux hold from the good stance, so I still had to do a significant move. I toe hooked and went sideways to hit it static with the right (wrong) hand and had to piano switch to get to the big move right. I was wearing shoes that my foot literally hangs out the side of... but I think it's hard in any shoes- maybe VERY HARD for shorter people.

    If all you brought was draws and no gear- no fear. The moves above where you'd make the placement are not that hard and the distance to the next bolt is not severe. This line goes pretty mellow without any trad gear. It's still not S. I took a cam at the suggestion of a pal, but it was easier to do 5.8 move than to try to place the cam and clip it from a 5.10 stance since the bolt was just left of my feet.
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jul 15, 2003

    RE Tony's comment about the gear: If hanging off a jug and placing a small TCU feels like 5.10, the moves getting to the next bolt will definitely not feel like 5.8. This section isn't really s-rated climbing but feels a bit out of place considering the otherwise closely spaced bolts. I've done this route four or five times and consider placing the piece a lot more casual than going without.
    By Craig Quincy
    Jul 18, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Slab-a-licious! Sticking in the gear in between the 2 and 3rd bolts is half the fun and quite welcome. Watch out for the loose rocks on the ledge when pulling the rope.
    By TBD
    Jul 21, 2003
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Perhaps I didn't do it as it was intended, but the fourth bolt seemed to pull me too far to the right. I moved left from the holds just over the small roof. Great climbing overall.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Aug 6, 2003
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Fantastic climb, thanks Bob and Vaino. I had a raging calf-pump going by the time I reached the crack (I found the moves not only thin and balancy but difficult to decipher), and I was *very* happy to plug in a cam. I didn't think the moves to the next bolt were all that moderate! I also felt the climbing was quite similar to Gravity's Angel in Eldo--slightly harder, but fewer cruxes.
    By Brian Milhaupt
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 11, 2004
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Great route. Tricky footwork gains the crux handhold. Glad to see there aren't bolts near the crack.
    By Chris Malke
    Jun 2, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I think this is a great route. I really like balancy slab routes and this one definitely fits this category. I think 11a is appropriate, especially for taller people. Moving at the second bolt requires a pretty far but decent left hand crimper. I'm 5'11'' and I barely reached it. My buddy was an inch shorter and he had to add a pretty crappy foot move. Just watch it as you're going for that really big ledge just before the anchors, some loose stuff there. I ripped off a hold and took a nice 15 footer, so be careful. Otherwise, highly recommended.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Feb 7, 2006

    For the average-height or less, average-to-heavier-than-average, average-to-less-than-average climber, smearing above the good foothold, this climb will beat up your left hand fingertips and you may get some blood blisters. Ow! Bring your slippers. Nonetheless, it is an aesthetic, intriguing sport climb. Kudos to the FAists!
    By SirVato
    From: Boulder
    Jun 23, 2006
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Sweet Route BobD/Vaino!! I am one of those short persons, at 5'4".
    I had to make a shitty left foot smear to get to the left hand crimp (it took me a couple of tries high stepping w/ the right to figure this out). Then, the move to the crack I had to let go of the rock and just teeter over 'til I could make a last second thrutch for the crack. From the ground, we thought the roof would be most difficult, but after all the slabbing down low the roof felt easy on big holds. We didn't know what this route was named or graded before we tried it. That seemed to make it much more intimidating. Before my partner went up,I said that it was probably 11a/b. Good guess I guess ;-) I think that's pretty right on!!
    By Kat A
    From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
    Sep 24, 2006
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Excellent route! At 5'4", it was a deja vu reading Rich's comment above about making the crux moves if you're under 6' tall. Thanks to BobD/Vaino for this route and others at Plotinus Wall.
    By GeoffElson
    Apr 15, 2007
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    This is a classic no matter the area, it's good to see smart bolting on a route in Boulder Canyon. Toward the top there is a ledge stance which kinda takes away from this being a five star route, but the bottom 2/3 has really fun slab moves. 11a.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 23, 2011

    This is one of the top slab routes in all of Boulder. This thing is amazing!! Very balancy with super tiny feet. Don't do it when it's hot or it will feel significantly harder. Amazing route, though. It keeps you on your toes to say the least.... Get 'er done!!!!!
    By slim
    Administrator
    Jul 18, 2012
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    i was kind of surprised by the difficulty of this route. it has one of those stand up moves on one foot with no hands that i generally struggle with. a #1 camalot would work really well for protecting the diagonal crack. the smaller crack has some pods and some vegetation that might make it a little more tricky to get a good piece. like others have said, you could probably do without the gear, but it isn't a bad idea to go ahead and place it if you can.