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Mud Spring Canyon
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Chuckwalla 21 T 
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Of Mice And Men T 
Schwa, The T 
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The Schwa 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Joe Herbst, 1977
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 2,405
Submitted By: John Wilder on Sep 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: the schwa is the the awsome splitter to o.w. in th...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Schwa is a striking splitter crack that divides a beautiful piece of white sandstone. The route is difficult to spot from the main trail, but once you begin ascending the hill, the route is obvious. The route has two first pitches- The original start went up the gully to the right of the route, then traversed left along a ledge to the base of the crack (110', 5.7). The direct start is .10d and goes up the obvious line to the base of the crack. The crack itself is .10d and approximately 90' long. The anchors are about 20' to the right of the top, but its better to belay at the top of the crack and then traverse over. The anchors are two fixed nuts with new cord as of Sept '07. One double rope rappel gets you to the ground.


Sitting at the mouth of Mud Springs Canyon, the Mud Spring Wing is the east facing buttress that forms the north side of the canyon's mouth. On the obvious east face is an obvious white face about 100 yards right of the huge roof that sits low to the ground at the toe of the buttress.


A good selection if planning on doing the direct start from fingers to wide (7")- double up on most things, triple on fists and off fists.

Photos of The Schwa Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: its a long walk back to the truck from the schwa t...
its a long walk back to the truck from the schwa t...
Rock Climbing Photo: the rack needed to link the direct start with pitc...
the rack needed to link the direct start with pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: john wilder linking the direct start and the secon...
john wilder linking the direct start and the secon...

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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 4, 2007

additional beta:

1) The direct start and the second pitch can be linked with a 70m rope- especially considering the rack for the first pitch is completely different.

2) The first pitch feels like a bit of a sandbag at .10d, tricky sequence along with stout moves make it feel more like .11 something.

linking them together doesnt increase the grade, as there are several great rests including two ledges to shake out and recuperate.
By Jonathan K
Jun 7, 2011

I second that the 5.10d direct start is sandbagged... Great climb second pitch is awesome
By Matt Kuehl
From: red rock
Mar 13, 2012

I did the original 5.7 pitch leading into the splitter and thought the climbing was varied and better than it looks. We saw several big chuckwalla's in the cracks too. The traverse left to the base of the splitter is airy, fun and worth it.

The second pitch is excellent and a must do for those looking for splitters. Bonus points if you bat hang off the diving board!

I wouldn't bother bringing anything larger than a #5 camalot and the old #3.5 camalots are great for the off-fists part. You can get back to the ground with two single raps on a 70m and I added another nut and some cord to the top anchor.

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