|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Joe Herbst, 1977|
|Submitted By:||John Wilder on Sep 26, 2007|
|Comments on The Schwa||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 4, 2007
1) The direct start and the second pitch can be linked with a 70m rope- especially considering the rack for the first pitch is completely different.
2) The first pitch feels like a bit of a sandbag at .10d, tricky sequence along with stout moves make it feel more like .11 something.
linking them together doesnt increase the grade, as there are several great rests including two ledges to shake out and recuperate.
By Jonathan K
Jun 7, 2011
|I second that the 5.10d direct start is sandbagged... Great climb second pitch is awesome|
By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Mar 13, 2012
I did the original 5.7 pitch leading into the splitter and thought the climbing was varied and better than it looks. We saw several big chuckwalla's in the cracks too. The traverse left to the base of the splitter is airy, fun and worth it.
The second pitch is excellent and a must do for those looking for splitters. Bonus points if you bat hang off the diving board!
I wouldn't bother bringing anything larger than a #5 camalot and the old #3.5 camalots are great for the off-fists part. You can get back to the ground with two single raps on a 70m and I added another nut and some cord to the top anchor.