|Type:||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A0 PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Sam Lightner and Josh Gross|
|Season:||Spring or Fall|
|Submitted By:||Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Schoolmaster||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Darren Knezek
Mar 26, 2008
I climbed this tower a few days ago and had a blast! I loved the way you bolted the top part as it kept the excitement super high, instead of a simple bolt ladder. That summit has to be one of the cooler desert tower summits I've ever stood up on. I had to wait about 5 minutes for a break in the wind to be able to do so without getting blown off. I felt like I was riding a surfboard on the summit!!!
I think that you could do the upper pitch with slings, but I took one aider and it was perfect and my partner had one aider also.
For some reason it took a few minutes to figure out which crack to climb in the back. Maybe in the description you could say that there are two cracks back there, an offwidth and then a crack to the right that arches left and allows access to the upper part of the offwidth.
My climbing buddy loved the 1st pitch as he had to climb a little out of his comfort zone. He used cams from .5" to 3.5" for the bottom crack and then 4" to 6" for the upper chimney/offwidth.
We used a 70-meter and a 60-meter would be a little short for the last single rope rappel.
What a great tower to get the FA on, certainly a feather in anyone's cap.
By j wharton
Apr 14, 2012
|Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing!|
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 14, 2012
|Seriously nice job JW!|
By Josh Gross
Apr 15, 2012
|Mike, JW nice job!|
By Derek Field
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0 R
|Desert tower adventure at it's finest!! The first pitch could be downright terrifying for someone unaccustomed to old-school 5.9+ sandstone. Heads up: after stocking the paper-thin flake with TCUs, make damn sure that you don't botch the tenuous transition into the chimney. On that note, there would be potentially grave consequences for somehow blowing the subsequent 20 feet of unprotected 5.8 squeeze. The upper part of the chimney, with its thick coating of birdshit, protects fine with camalot size 1-3, although big pieces would work too. The summit pitch is a blast (no matter how you do it) and the ironing-board summit totally worth it!|