|Type:||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A0 [details]|
|FA:||Sam Lightner and Josh Gross|
|Season:||Spring or Fall|
|Submitted By:||Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Schoolmaster||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Darren Knezek
Mar 26, 2008
I climbed this tower a few days ago and had a blast! I loved the way you bolted the top part as it kept the excitement super high, instead of a simple bolt ladder. That summit has to be one of the cooler desert tower summits I've ever stood up on. I had to wait about 5 minutes for a break in the wind to be able to do so without getting blown off. I felt like I was riding a surfboard on the summit!!!
I think that you could do the upper pitch with slings, but I took one aider and it was perfect and my partner had one aider also.
For some reason it took a few minutes to figure out which crack to climb in the back. Maybe in the description you could say that there are two cracks back there, an offwidth and then a crack to the right that arches left and allows access to the upper part of the offwidth.
My climbing buddy loved the 1st pitch as he had to climb a little out of his comfort zone. He used cams from .5" to 3.5" for the bottom crack and then 4" to 6" for the upper chimney/offwidth.
We used a 70-meter and a 60-meter would be a little short for the last single rope rappel.
What a great tower to get the FA on, certainly a feather in anyone's cap.
By j wharton
Apr 14, 2012
|Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing!|
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Apr 14, 2012
|Seriously nice job JW!|
By Josh Gross
Apr 15, 2012
|Mike, JW nice job!|