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The Scepter

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The Scepter Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 4,440'
Page Views: 600
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Dec 5, 2008


58° | 30°

54° | 32°

55° | 33°

57° | 39°

58° | 35°
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  • Guided Access Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    The Scepter is the globe-shaped (when seen from afar) high point on the northwest tip of West Mountain, at the top. From here, you overlook the dam and the desert to the west. It is more or less straight uphill from the Pit Roof, though the best access is via the gully on the west side, past The Natural Forest.

    This zone is also home to Fred Nicole's hyper-famous and incredibly aesthetic problem The Feather (V11), for reference.

    Getting There 

    Hike south past the dam and around the toe of The Natural Forest, the first tall, unbroken buttress on the left (just) past the dam. A gully scramble just south of the buttress leads to a saddle atop the northwest tip of West Mountain.

    From here, navigate left (northerly) through slots, slabs, caves, etc. to reach the Scepter.

    Climbing Season

    For the Hueco Tanks area.

    Weather station 8.1 miles from here

    2 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Featured Route For The Scepter

    Chewbacca V9-10 7C+  TX : Hueco Tanks : ... : The Scepter
    Chewbacca climbs the middle of the iron stone on the north face of The Scepter, about 30 feet to climber's right of the eponymous crack line. The business is in the first 25/30 feet, and I'm not really sure how to rate it. As a boulder problem, sheer terror might add a V grade or two, so it could be as "easy" as V7 or as hard as V10.I did Chewbacca as a ground-up boulder problem, over two days, with crashpads and spotters. At one point, I climbed the easier (V3) corner to the right as a boulder/...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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