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Crossfire Crag
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Bad Seed S 
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Improbable S 
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Last Coyote, The S 
Possibility, The S 
Scene Is Not For Sale, The S 
Short and Sassy S 
Split The Scene S 

The Scene Is Not For Sale 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall, Sam Owings
Page Views: 2,880
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Nelson on the opening moves of The Scene is Not fo...

Description 

Starts right of center and just right of Crossfire (5.12a) with bouldery moves past the first bolt. Once the crux is dispatched the climbing is very enjoyable, with fairly continuous climbing on large, positive holds for the most part. Long and continuous, this climb works well as a warm-up for the harder lines on the wall.

Protection 

10 bolts, anchors


Photos of The Scene Is Not For Sale Slideshow Add Photo
Nelson past the initial crux of Scene is not for S...
Nelson past the initial crux of Scene is not for S...
This route goes to the right, as opposed to what t...
This route goes to the right, as opposed to what t...

Comments on The Scene Is Not For Sale Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 25, 2013
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 28, 2007

Could not find this route. Really!!! I did the boulder start and clipped up to the cross over point. Looking directly up a blunt arete there was a line of bolts with little chalk... headed up... grim moves! It appears that all the big and chalked holds (which are about 3ft right of this bolt line) are on the route Split the Scene. So I moved left across a giant Hueco and then up another line of bolts to the anchors of I'm guessing was/is Crossfire. Who knows... good route this way too.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

The bolt lines in this area are a little confusing because they are squeeze jobs. Climbing 3' right of the bolt line on this (which is the only area showing frequent travel..i.e. chalk) would put you into reasonable territory that seems to match the rating, but would also put the bolts to the next route to the right at about your right hip. Going straight over the bolt line looks hard, improbable, and shows no signs of travel.

The link-up Russ did was fun with good moves and is worth doing in its own right. You would probably want to use long draws on the last bolt where you leave this line and the first one where you join Crossfire to avoid rope drag.
By duh
Feb 1, 2007

The guide book is incorrect, Why am I not surprised. The "Classic" Scene Is Not For Sale 10d/11a, climbs the boulder problem and continues up 4 bolts and then heads right, following the obvious weakness/easier climbing past a 10b section to the top. Split The Scene 12a/b, starts the same and heads left and up at the 4th bolt. There is a hard inobvious, boulder problem to get on the lt bolt line, which involves stepping up on a now broken/smaller lt foothold and a long reach way lt to a lt handhold which allows you to pull onto the "blunt arete"/route. After seeing your post I went back and did the route last weekend. The route is intact, though a little harder with the broken foothold, and there was no chalk on the far away lt handhold, used to pull over onto the route at the conection.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 1, 2007

So duh, are you saying the guidebook is wrong? How could that happen? Are there any other mistakes in the guide that we all should know about? Ratings, route lines, etc?
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 1, 2007

Aha. Well that makes alot more sense....reversed in the guidebook. So on the linkup you are getting the crux boulder prob start of TSINFS and then two more cruxes about the same difficulty..one being the last move of the traverse that puts you onto Crossfire proper...a psuedo iron cross thing, and one near the top of Crossfire with a long move from an undercling horn to a good horn. Link up makes for a good sustained route for the grade.
By duh
Feb 1, 2007

HAHAHAAA!!!1 Well Russ, that's what happens when guide book authors write guides to areas they have never climbed at and then don't let someone that knows the area look at and make corrections before it is published. And yes there are other errors, not only at NJC. I made a list of corrections for route info(NJC) that you and Susan submited and sent it to her. Most of the incorrect info is, misrated(overrated) routes and fa info, but there are a few route discription errors as well.
By B.S. Luther
From: Walnut, CA
Mar 29, 2010

Awesome route! My favorite in New Jack so far. Long for the area, overhung, sustained, a bit technical, but on good holds. If you're still fighting down your inner sissy like me, the slab climb from the last bolt to the anchors is intimidating. Definitely recommend this route to anyone heading to NJC.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route pumped me out by the sixth or seventh bolt. I have never climbed anything like this anywhere else - I can't believe the line just keeps going and going! I was able to do all the moves, but ended up resting after each clip on the upper section. Definitely need to go back and red point! I really recommend this route for anyone in the area looking for a sustained challenge!

Heady lead!
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Climbing this route a year later was interesting. The bottom moves are definitely sequencey and height dependent, and the rock is quite slippery now. The upper portion actually has quite a few rests and feels no harder than mid .10 range... but the rests let you shake the pump out. Still so much fun!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Get your game-face on before heading up, bolts 1, 2 & even 3 is sequential with slippery feet as a bonus low. Mid-route reminds you there are multiple crux's - sport bolted but why is it 6+ feet can look so far away? Good climb, opening moves weeds out the riffraff and full value to the chains.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 25, 2013

Who is this riffraff you speak of?