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The Sand People 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alan Cattabraga
Page Views: 1,579
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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isaac getting to the anchors...

Description 

This is a really interesting and fun climb around the left corner of the Darth Vader Crag. Originally a spicy trad climb now it's been retro-bolted and it is a spooky sport climb with a big run out in the middle (not sure why, though the move there aren't too hard). It's a fine route, just be careful and bring a cool head.

Start by the birch tree on the ledge. Make a committing move right and gain a huge flake. move back left and up connecting jugs with some balance moves. eventually climb a perfect hand crack to the chains.

Location 

Starts at a birch tree just up and around the corner on the left end of the crag....

Protection 

Slings, nuts, TCUs and a gold Camalot should do it.... Oh, and as always, a cool head....


Photos of The Sand People Slideshow Add Photo
A good look at the layback flake to start
BETA PHOTO: A good look at the layback flake to start
Isaac jammin
Isaac jammin
The Sand People
BETA PHOTO: The Sand People
Jakob about to clip the 3rd bolt... look at that rumney run out!
Jakob about to clip the 3rd bolt... look at that r...
Looking Up
BETA PHOTO: Looking Up

Comments on The Sand People Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2013
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Does this route have quick clips or anything at the top?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 28, 2008

i forget but i think you use the anchor for Darth Vadar...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

That is what I suspected...
By apeman e
Jun 9, 2009

It's now bolted. Cold shuts at the top, I think.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 9, 2009

really... seriously... well i hope people use it cause its a great route but it didnt need bolts... it needed a slightly steady nerve...
By Ben C
From: Portland, OR
Jun 17, 2009

just noticed this route, (because of bolts) thought it remained a spicy route (the third bolt is well above the second) i thought it was excellent maybe one day i'll do it on gear!
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 17, 2009

Tim Kemple Sr. bolted it about 2 or 3 weeks ago.
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Jul 28, 2009

Hey Lee you should change it to Trad/Sport
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 28, 2009

changed it...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 16, 2010

Climbed the bolted version of this today... It seemed no safer on bolts than on gear... The run out between the 2nd and 3rd bolts seemed like a groundfall waiting to happen... i hope someone can add a bolt between those two for the sake of the moderate climber...
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Mar 17, 2010

Lee is there any gear between 2nd and 3rd bolt to fill in that gap? ie 1-2 pieces to bring in case it doesnt get a new bolt?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 18, 2010

maybe something off to the left but that would defeat the purpose of retro-bolting a route right haha... the route was fine and fun the way it was...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 6, 2010

I did this route last weekend and I thought the bolts were fine. You are on jugs while doing the "run out". If you can manage the start, I don't see how you could fall unless struck by a tree. I heard second hand that Tim was dealing with rock quality issues. That is why he put the bolts where he did
By S. Neoh
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The start is especially tricky and technical for the grade, but safe.
Jugs and more jugs in the runout section between 2nd and 3rd bolt.
Start felt 5.9-ish to me.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Jun 6, 2011

Climbed this route on June 4, 2011. Not sure if the third bolt was missing or not (my first time on this route). It didn't seem overly run out. I remember 4 bolts and chains for anchors. Some people have mentioned they think there are lower offs at the top, there are not (I bumped my back in to a nice pointy rock repelling down about 2 feet off the ground).

All in all, a fun route. The difficulty is all in your head, though. Everything under the second bolt is very exposed and can give the shakes to a climber who doesn't trust their feet or their balance. The first bolt can be clipped by hand from the starting ledge unless you are particularly short (the bolt is maybe 7 feet up).
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 31, 2013

Looked at this route on the hike up to Jimmy yesterday and was really surprised at the run out between the second and third bolts. I remember reading about it here on MP but didn't imagine it to be quite as big as it actually is. Sure it looks like easy climbing with a nice ledge and everything but it looks like a disaster waiting to happen for a beginning to intermediate leader who might be looking for another moderate climb while waiting on the line of people down below at Yoda or Obi-Won. It's not exactly the cleanest landing down below.
By S. Neoh
Mar 31, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Sure it is a big runout but it is 5.5 or 5.6 between the 2nd and third bolt. IMO, the crux is the start. If a leader can get through that cleanly, the runout should be no problem as long as he/she can keep it together on easy ground.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 31, 2013

Yeah, I know it's easy climbing but ya never know, we all make mistakes. I'd just hate to make that mistake. My post is by no means meant to keep people off the route. I plan on jumping on it myself pretty soon. Just an observation..
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 31, 2013

There was a hole drilled in that run out but no bolt was placed... we should just toss one more in...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 1, 2013

the rock seems fine but im not gonna go adding bolts to another persons route... i liked it better as a trad route anyway...
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 6, 2013

Update on my previous comments...I finally climbed it, you certainly woudn't wanna fall there but the climbing was so moderate that before i knew it the bolt was right in front of me. it wasn't really a problem. fun little climb for sure
By S. Neoh
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Glad it all worked out for you, M.