The Sail  5.10c PG13

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Type:  Trad, 115 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Milton Mugambe/Taylor Lamoreuax Season:  summer Submitted By:  Milton Mugambe on Jun 25, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This left-leaning crack system requires good route finding skills as well resposible gear placements. There is just enough protection to keep the leader safe, however, the leaning nature coupled with the contour of the slope below make "decking" a possibility until about 2/3rds of the way up the climb. Also. the fact that the climb crosses some corners, makes protecting the follower from a crippling swing a must. This multi-crux climb is fantastic but for solid 5.10 leaders only.

Location 

The sail is located around the corner from the large boulder barrier. From the boulder barrier in the west gully below the west face routes of the Steeple, walk left(east) along the Catwalk and around the corner to the "toe" of the east face side of the Steeple. The angling crack rises just to the left of the "toe" and follows the leaning crack across some right-facing corners a parallel hand crack in a clean right-facing corner leads to a ledge below a thin, slightly broken crack. (a shallow #4 Camelot protects the initial moves off the ledge). Climb the thin crack to a chain anchor to the left of a small tree. Beware of some looseness at the final moves. Lower straight down with a seventy meter rope.

Protection 

Wires, TCU's and cams 3/8" to 3". (3)each 1/2" to 1" Include 1 #4camelot for final face crack finish. Many draws and long runners.