The "S" Buttress  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  T. Hayes and S. Annecone, 4/15/93 Submitted By:  Steve Annecone on Feb 20, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Security Risk MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This interesting route is the left-most route on Upper Security. It starts off the flake directly below the start of Pup (left-facing corner), and was led with natural gear before Pup existed. The weird-name was in reference to the bizarre, S-shaped dike in the granite near the start of the route.

Start up the left-facing corner and tackle the crux overlap/bulge down low (5.10a). This section is pumpy and a bit awkward for the rating, but pros very well. Continue up the corner with stems and jams to an alcove below a roof, then traverse to the right about 10 feet to join the huge white dike. The traverse is a bit tricky to protect, and includes slightly crumbly rock in spots, making it feel about 5.9s if you don't find the right sequence and pro. When arriving at the dike, you'll encounter a line of bolts known as Pup, although at this point abundant opportunities for solid crack protection exist.

The line from here essentially heads straight up the groove and then blunt arete (shared with Pup), with some steep and exposed moves along the way. We originally followed the cracks to the top of the rock and walked off, but the climbing eases off (5.6/5.7) above the anchor for Pup, so rapping from that anchor is a good option if you want to avoid the walk off. A pretty fun route with good exposure up high, and one of the few 5.10 or easier climbs in the area.

Protection 

Standard light rack, mostly smaller cams and nuts. You can go to the top and walk off, or most will prefer to rap from the two bolt anchor on top of Pup.