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The Ruins

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before Limitations S 
Big Pow Wow, The S 
Black Feather S 
Calf Rustler T,S 
Crooked Sky S 
Crossed Up S 
Dry Country S 
Duh Bulge S 
Eating Crow direct S 
Fear of Intimacy S 
Four Crows S 
Hole Shot S 
Home on the Range T,S 
If We Bolt It They Won't Come T 
Jug Hunter S 
Kaboom T 
Lost Feather S 
Medicine Bag S 
No Excuses S 
One S 
One Green Spot S 
Oregon Trail S 
Parallel Ventures T,S 
Primal Sledge S 
Quick One, The T,S 
Relic, The T 
Techno Savage S 
Too Far Gone S 
White Eyes Arrive, The S 
You Call It S 

The Ruins Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 14,977
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: bw1 on Mar 24, 2005


59° | 31°

62° | 36°

64° | 39°

69° | 38°

60° | 35°
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Rando climbing in the ruins as the sun sets


This south facing rock makes a nice outing during the winter and has some nice variety of both grade and type (trad and sport, 5.8-5.12). Note that some of the routes need two ropes. Some nice ones here include "One Green Spot" (5.9+ sport), "Parallel Ventures" (5.10b bolts/small gear), and "Crooked Sky" (5.10d face/gear).

Getting There 

Park in the lot at milepoint 4.7 and take the steep trail which starts at the north end and follows over the east ridge. Once atop the ridge and just past a fence the trail will continue down to the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.6 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Ruins

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Ruins:
One Green Spot   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Techno Savage   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   
No Excuses   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   
Four Crows   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Medicine Bag   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Crooked Sky   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Black Feather   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Eating Crow direct   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 20'   
The Big Pow Wow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Duh Bulge   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
The White Eyes Arrive   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Ruins

Featured Route For The Ruins
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Haag speeding up Techno Savage

Techno Savage 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Ruins
I think this is a really fun route, very good positive edges and sustained. The only drawback is it's short. Another 40 feet of the same and it'd get three stars. Well worth doing....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of The Ruins Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: K-Leigh @ the Ruins 1/15/11
K-Leigh @ the Ruins 1/15/11
Rock Climbing Photo: After blowing the onsight on this route (Primal Sl...
After blowing the onsight on this route (Primal Sl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Onsighting some of what "The Ruins" has ...
Onsighting some of what "The Ruins" has ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris on Parallel Ventures. The Ruins has one of t...
Chris on Parallel Ventures. The Ruins has one of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Suedkamp climbing at the Ruins.
Ryan Suedkamp climbing at the Ruins.

Comments on The Ruins Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 13, 2006
A great winter crag with a pulse raising approach.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 7, 2007
This lot is below the fee area, so if you have a choice of which car to drive up to this lot, take the crappiest one you can.

I've driven my cracked-windshield older truck up there plenty of times, but when we took my wife's brand-new car somebody decided to take a handful of gravel and throw it at the windshield while we were out of sight.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 18, 2010
For those of you who use Google Earth, I've put together an approach map. You can download it from

By Gordon88
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Jan 7, 2013
GPS Coordinates
+32° 19' 25.45", -110° 41' 35.39"
32.323736, -110.693164

The Trail was VERY easy to follow though. Was there for my first time yesterday.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 3, 2013
Anyone have route info for the newer stuff to the left of Dry Country?
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 3, 2013
Hey Mike the first three have been sorted.
By Mike Kane
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2013
Thanks Eric. Much appreciate it.
By jaspur
From: tucson,az
Dec 14, 2014
Found a pair of shoes at the crag today. Pm me with size and make/model and I gots em for you
By 1Eric Rhicard
2 days ago
Here is a typical cool winter day at the Ruins on Mt. Lemmon!

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