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This south facing rock makes a nice outing during the winter and has some nice variety of both grade and type (trad and sport, 5.8-5.12). Note that some of the routes need two ropes. Some nice ones here include "One Green Spot" (5.9+ sport), "Parallel Ventures" (5.10b bolts/small gear), and "Crooked Sky" (5.10d face/gear).
Park in the lot at milepoint 4.7 and take the steep trail which starts at the north end and follows over the east ridge. Once atop the ridge and just past a fence the trail will continue down to the rock.
29 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in The Ruins
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Ruins:
One Green Spot 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Techno Savage 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport
Medicine Bag 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Black Feather 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch
Duh Bulge 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For The Ruins
Jug Hunter 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : The Ruins
This route is another finish to a route Jim, Dean Brault and I put up in 2001. The name escapes me right now but it is two pitches with ring anchors below the roof. After doing some great climbing on the old route he new finish moves right just before the other routes anchors and turns the roof 7 feet or so to the right of where the original route turns the route. Turning the roof and hanging on long enough to get to the anchors is hard after the two low cruxes. The climbing is not obvious a...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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