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The Rubster 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, Julie Wright, 24th November 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 435
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Nov 25, 2012

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Climbing the last few moves on the FA of The Rubst...

Description 

The Rubster takes you to the highest point of the rocks that form this section, and provides fine exposed face climbing on the second pitch.

1. 5.10b Climb the arete, either by laybacking the edge or using small crimps on the left side. At the top of the arete move up the slab and climb the short face and slab up to the anchors.

2. 5.10a Climb up the slabby face to the obvious break just below the midway point. From here continue up the steeper head wall to a precarious couple of last moves up to the spectacular summit.

Location 

Located to the right of Fat Bastard.

Walk around the large boulder on the right of the area. Scramble up some rounded boulders to get to the base of the climb.

Protection 

1. 5 bolts, double ring anchors
2. 6 bolts, ring and bolt anchor


Photos of The Rubster Slideshow Add Photo
Working up the headwall on the FA of The Rubster.
Working up the headwall on the FA of The Rubster.
The Rubster 5.10b, Topo <br /> <br />The dotted line is hidden out of view
BETA PHOTO: The Rubster 5.10b, Topo

The dotted line is hidden...

Comments on The Rubster Add Comment
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Nov 25, 2012

It is possible to climb both pitches in one long pitch, but you will need to extend the first bolt of the second pitch, and then rap the pitches individually, as there will be too much rope drag to be lowered.
By Ryan DeBruyn
From: Redlands, CA
Sep 25, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Bit of a scramble to get to the start. Once there you'll enjoy a series of nice moves to the top. First move gets your heart beating immediately, pull a sweet layback on the arete and end it with a fun move over a buldge to the first anchor. Bring a snack or lunch and enjoy the view on top.