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 ADVANCED
The Sentinel - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butt Buttress, The S 
Centipede, The T 
Chameleon, The T 
Desert Song T 
Flared Bear T 
Great White Buffalo T 
Illusion Dweller T 
Not for Loan T 
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 
Some Like It Hot T 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Where Janitors Dare T 
Worms in Your Brain T 

The Rubberfat Syndrome 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Bachar, Mari Gingery, John Yablonski, 1979
Page Views: 1,011
Submitted By: Will S on Jan 19, 2008

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Will negotiating the "pod" before the crux, while ...

Description 

This route is a neglected gem. The line is a straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack. Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10' level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting in line for this one.


Location 

About 80' right of the start of Illusion Dweller and immediately right of the bolted start of Chameleon. Tops out just right of the topout for Illusion Dweller. Walk off climber's right down the south shoulder of the formation.


Protection 

Toprope. Take a separate rope to rig the TR, the anchor will be way back from the edge and takes 3" to 5".



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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 20, 2008

FA: John Bachar, late 70's?

By The Shocker
Oct 2, 2013

Did this route in 2005 to avoid the queue on Illusion D. No gear until after the crux. Dave Mayville watched and speculated it was the first lead of the route. Onsight mandatory.

By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 21, 2014

Lucky enough to followed some young gun up this and went the way Dave Mayville has popularized using the first bolt on Chameleon and then jamming the right slanting crack back to the upper crack. Great climbing and looked like better gear to lead that way. Exit right to bolted anchor.