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The Royal Tower

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Blade, The 
Gargoyle Buttress 
Jester, The 

The Royal Tower 


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Elevation: 8,130'
Lat, Long: 62.7005, -151.2227 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,605
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
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The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.


Getting There 

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Royal Tower
The Jester 5.10 in red, The Blade (5.10+ variation) in blue

The Jester 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Mod. Snow  AK : Denali National Park : ... : The Royal Tower
Towards the left margin of the East face of the Royal Tower is a narrow buttress that starts in a toe of clean, white rock. The obvious feature to look for is the "V-shaped" cracks in the clean rock. The Jester takes the left branch of the "V" (crux) before climbing more moderate and wandering pitches up the ridge and finally a ton of 3rd class to the summit. Many parties will probably opt to do just the technical portion of the climb (7 pitches) and rappel from fixed anchors/slings. Climb moder...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of The Royal Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of the clouds on the Royal Tower
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...
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