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The Royal Tower

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Blade, The T 
Boomerang Buttress T 
Chase, The T 
Di's Surprise T 
East Ridge T 
Gargoyle Buttress T 
Got Lucky T 
Jester, The T 
Royal Flush T 
Southeast Face T 
Spam and Legs  T 

The Royal Tower  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,130'
Location: 62.7005, -151.2227 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,402
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: The Royal Tower. The shadow of the Munchkin can ju...

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.

Getting There 

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 52.2 miles from here

11 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For The Royal Tower
The Royal Tower. The Gargoyle Buttress is left of ...

Gargoyle Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Mod. Snow  AK : Denali National Park : ... : The Royal Tower
Probably the most popular route on the Royal Tower. Thanks to a striking line, mostly moderate climbing, and, most importantly, inclusion in Puryear's book, makes it easy to understand why. As noted, I would imagine the majority of parties stop at the top of the rock, but continuing to the summit makes for a really rewarding route. This, of course, requires carrying boots and tools all the way up there. At any rate, a very worthwhile route with very fun climbing in spots and amazing views. Easy ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of The Royal Tower Slideshow Add Photo
The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp
The Royal Tower as seen from the airstrip/basecamp
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...
The Gargoyle Buttress, IV 5.10a, jutting out of th...

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