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Moderate Mecca
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The Route to Mecca 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain, Winston Farrar,Jake Burkey
Page Views: 1,757
Submitted By: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? on Aug 25, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: a look down the end of the climb


A fun route to hop on, if you are already planning on heading out to the area. The more popular climb "The Haj"(5.9),shares an anchor with this route. "The route to Mecca" starts 10 feet or so left of "Sir Climbalot"(5.7PG)and"The Haj"(5.9). Climb the short,left facing corner,then pull up over the well protected bulge(crux)continuing to climb the fun, left facing corner/crack that will exit onto a couple of ledges. Scramble up the ledges(watch out for the barrel cactus)to a bolted communal anchor on a nice sized ledge. Rappel with one 60 meter rope.


Standard rack to 3"

Photos of The Route to Mecca Slideshow Add Photo
good look from the bottom. great pro from start to finish
BETA PHOTO: good look from the bottom. great pro from start to...
Moderate Mecca Left End
BETA PHOTO: Moderate Mecca Left End
Comments on The Route to Mecca Add Comment
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By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 21, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Route very similar to Sir Climbalot to it's right; crux kinda down low so protect well then cruise the rest of the route! Maybe a bit better gear on this route than its neighbors!

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Dec 17, 2008

This is the better of the two 5.7's here. You'll want a tiny cam .33" for the upper lieback dihedral move.

What's up with the cheap ass chain anchor? Make sure to save some skinny biners to fit through the tiny links as there are no hangers up there either.

By dirty son of a cinch
From: las vegas, nv
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

my second trad lead climb!! great protection- and in need of some real anchors!!

By Alex Ethier
Jul 16, 2012

This route is in serious need of an anchor!!! Current anchor situation is rather dodgy.
The anchor itself is fine but the traverse from route to Mecca to the anchor is sketchy.

By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

There is an anchor directly above 'The Route to Mecca'. It is on a verticle wall above the barrel cactus. This is not shown in some guidebooks. The quality of the anchors isn't great. There are no hangars, quicklinks or rap rings and the chain links are small. It is a chain directly bolted to the rock. The hardware needs to be upgraded, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. The stance at the anchor is practically flat.

By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Yesterday two new quicklinks were added to the chains to make the anchors and cleaning a little easier. I also left a #12 BD stopper on the wall (stuck). I would like to have it back.