the route I climbed 5.10a/b PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | ? |
| Season: | spring,fall, am summer, n |
| Submitted By: | Francis Baker (fran) on Aug 20, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: bolted crack to anchor below bush.
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Description climb up face and crack using thin fingers and balance. Steep and fun with good movement.
Location 5' N of tight dihedral. Look for five bolts to anchor just below a bush on a ledge.
Protection Bolts and some small stuff inbetween.
BETA PHOTO: This is how I set up the TR. I used the first two ...
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Jason cranking the crux moves on the unknown sport...
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Darren on "The Route I Didn't Climb"
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| Comments on the route I climbed |
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By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 9, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c
| I thought this climb was significantly harder than 5.10. The bolts are sparse in a few places but natural pro is available. Single set of cams to .5 camalot and micronuts would be plenty. |
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 9, 2011
rating: 5.11-
| There is no way this route is 10a or whatever the OP would suggest. I would argue "The Route I Climbed" was not climbed by the OP. Be ready for some tough climbing between spaced bolts. Good climbing none the less, but be ready for 11- climbing. |
By Xavier Wasiak
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 10, 2011
| The route Fran started on the left is a 9 that is a fun bolted sport route that gets on the arete on the left. I think he may have finished on a trad line that is to the right of that sport route. The climb on the face to the right that Karsten and Darren are talking about, to the right of a corner, is a sport 11 that is pretty well bolted. I say well, because I think all the crucial areas are well protected to make for a pretty safe, albeit thoughtful climb. |
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