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The Weasel Formation
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The Rooster 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Layne Potter.. Mar 19 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: USBRIT on Mar 19, 2004

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Paul Ross and Layne Potter on the FA of The Rooste...


The route is on the south face of The Pinnacle, about 150' left of the Howe/Garrents "Pinnacle South Face Route". The route climbs the very obvious open book corner to the Rooster shaped block that can been seen from as far away as I70. The route is a classic high adventure sandstone climb with some quite awkward aid and free moves.The route climbs up a monster groove which is a tad dangerous as if any rock is dislodged it is most likely end up in your seconds lap or worse.

P1) Just out from the corner follow the thin left-angling crack past a small roof with a bolt, and then up right via ledges and short cracks to anchors. 120' C2 5.8.
P2) The cracks improve for awhile then close up(2 #1 angles). 80' C2 A1 5.8.
P3) Continue up the corner passing 4 bolts at a blank section to a hanging belay. 100' C2 5.8.
P4) Go up the left trending corner with aid and free moves(2 bolts) to an obvious fork lightning 3" crack. Pull out left and climb about 40' to the summit rim. The rap/anchors are situated in a very large block just below the rim . The last 30' or so of climbing to the anchors is quite loose 100' C2 5.7R.

FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter. March 19 2004.


About 7 bolts were placed for aid in blank sections , Two #1 angles. Three sets of cams from Alians to two #5 and one #6 friends. Extras of.05 and #1 friends.Two 200' ropes

Photos of The Rooster Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Layne on hanging belay pitch 4
Layne on hanging belay pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on pitch 2
Paul on pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Ross and Layne Potter barely visible on the F...
Paul Ross and Layne Potter barely visible on the F...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Route
The Route

Comments on The Rooster Add Comment
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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Oct 12, 2004

Note .... The Discription into this area of the Weasel, Breezway, the Desert Rock III is incorrect .. Should read . Drive 6.1 miles (NOT 2.2) south from the San Rafael River bridge to a road on the right (west) with a cattle guard . Go 1 mile take road on right . Go 6/10 mile take road on left . Go 1.8 miles to end of road and camp site . Path up to the formations up the talis on right.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jun 18, 2010

No known second ascent as of June 2010

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