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Unsorted Routes:

The Rookie 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Maurice Reed, Bobby Rotert 1983
Page Views: 1,183
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jun 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

With enough pads The Rookie could probably be bouldered. However, doing the moves is only half the experience. The other half involves wondering if the small cams and wires that you have placed are going to keep you off the ground if you fall at the crux.

Start by pulling over a small roof, grabbing some interesting face holds and carefully placing the your first pieces. Once you are ready, move past your gear, and into the crux which involves powerful moves between flaring finger locks. Keep moving until you reach the next "good" lock about 6 feet above your gear. Throw something in, make a few more bizarre, yet easy moves into the groove and clip the chains.

Excellent rock, great moves, nice mental challenge, but a bit too short to get four stars. Definitely recommended.

Location 

20 yards to the left of the SpectreMan, The Rookie is a short finger crack with a large boulder at the base and a funky flake hanging off the wall near the chains.

Protection 

The gear is a little sparse, but very good. Bring small cams and nuts. You can also bring some midsized cams for the flare at the top.


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By Handsome B. Wonderful
Jun 21, 2008

Very stiff line, but in no way shape or form does this climb warrant a pg grade. You can get bomber gear almost anywhere you want it.
By Justin Edl
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree with HBW, the gear on this one is adequately spaced and definitely bomber. I spent a couple hours one day falling off this, so I know the crux piece is good and will keep you off the ground well enough. Also, the movement on this thing is interesting and excellent.

Lots of stuff is like this at Vedauwoo. It's on you right away so your dealing with the ground.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 6, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A creative chimney/head scum off a flake at the top is helpful for slowly eaking out the upper section. Just sitting here at work, picking the scabs out of my hair. Only one or so hard moves, but the moment you move up on that fingerlock, it feels like your hand is going to come flying out and smack you in the face. Classic Vedauwoo.