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Unsorted Routes:

The Roof 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 5,093
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Pulling the Roof on a beautiful spring day.


This one seems to get harder every year...Though it is graded 5.7, I still feel like I'm going to fall every time I do the first moves.... The foot holds have been polished to a marble finish by years of use, you're welcome for the excuse, now forget the grade and climb the route 'cause it's still fun no matter how slippery the starting feet are....

Climb the crack up under the roof place a few good pieces and follow the crack out right and up to a ledge, find the good feet.... A great climb with good gear.... You can also exit the roof to the left or straight over at a harder grade but the right finish is the most fun....


Near the left side of the upper cliff is a crack corner heading up to a triangle roof.... This feature is hard to miss....


Regular rack to #1 Camalot.... Belay or TR from trees.

Photos of The Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kaytee Flick seconding The Roof.
Kaytee Flick seconding The Roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux is not the roof... mike is learning this....
the crux is not the roof... mike is learning this....
Rock Climbing Photo: The Roof... why did they name it that?
BETA PHOTO: The Roof... why did they name it that?
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling out of the roof... so fun...
Pulling out of the roof... so fun...
Rock Climbing Photo: mike protecting while onsighting a classic
mike protecting while onsighting a classic

Comments on The Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Apr 8, 2007

This is an awesome route, if you are top-roping the route check out the faces on either side, they're fun as well.
By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Nov 26, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Start is the crux. The crack in the dihedral is full of dirt (as of early fall 08), so jamming isn't really an option. Using the face holds I think bumps the grade up a tad. The roof section is way easy compared to the first 15 feet.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 26, 2008

it was nice and clean when i was on it a couple weeks ago... i find that a mix of jams and crimps works best... right hand in the crack left hand crimp up high and a high left foot, then you are in it...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 4, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did the face to the right today and it is really fun, probably goes around .9 or 9+ by Pway standards.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If the roof is wet it becomes the crux, had a very interesting encounter with it this weekend.
By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013

Anybody else think the start of this feels 5.10- ish?
By S. Neoh
Nov 13, 2013

Twenty or 21 years ago it felt like 5.8(?). Good gear. Going over the roof on the right is fun, like Lee said.
By Lon Hohberger
From: Hudson, NH
Feb 5, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start foothold has been worn smooth from years of abuse, I think, making the start move the crux these days. The rest isn't technically difficult, though the roof can be burly.
By Cron
From: Barrington, NH
Nov 16, 2015

Neat/awkward moves to get off the ground - that foot hold is the most polished piece of granite I've ever seen!

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